-
Welcome to the Two Wheeled Texans community! 
Feel free to hang out and lurk as long as you like. However, we would like to encourage you to register so that you can join the community and use the numerous features on the site. After registering, don't forget to post up an introduction!
Texas to Montana Ride!
- Thread starter TinStar
- Start date
Day 3: Twin Falls, ID to Moab, UT
The Unladen Swallow... European... not African... no, wait...
This morning I had breakfast at the motel and while packing the bike had a conversation with a nice guy from Canada who was loading up his 85 Goldwing. He'd been making a loop from Canada through the western U. S. and was headed back north. He said he could barely talk from the smoke of forest fires he'd ridden through and I'd had a sore throat all day for the same reason. Wished each other well and headed off in opposite directions.
Mmmmmmm... egg-like substance and coffee
I-84 from Twin Falls towards Salt Lake City was flat, hot and windy so I just pegged the throttle and leaned the bike into the wind gusts.
Leaving Twin Falls
As I eventually got near the Utah border, a few mountains began to rise on the horizon and the telltale wisps of smoke from forest fires could be seen.
There's a far over thar
Further south near the border there were mutiple fires so I pulled off the road and headed up a farm road to try and get closer. I could see a large chopper dropping water on the flames but the road through the fields began to get extremely deep in powder dust - about 8 to 10 inches and the pig became a real handful. I finally decided to give up and turned around just as a forest service truck came by and doused me in dust.
Back on the highway to Salt Lake and crossing the border into Utah the scenery got pretty nice considering it was interstate. The heat increased as well as the wind and I eventually hit Salt Lake around noon or 1 and the traffic was "intense". Fast, congested and full of jerks going 95mph. I was dehydrated and needed a break so I grabbed a burger at Fuddruckers and cooled off for about an hour.
Forming my evil plan...
The goal was Moab and so Hwy 6 at Spanish Fork just south of Provo was the road. A huge plume of smoke was rising like a mushroom cloud from the mountains south of me as I headed into the canyon on Hwy 6.
Fire south of Provo
Hwy 6 turned out to be a great ride - lots of canyons and scenery.
Just before Price there were some great rock formations. At Price I pulled off to find a cold drink and more water. I reaaaally went through the fluids today...
After Price, the road drops into beautiful and lonely desert mountains - really beautiful but dry and hot.
One note - I got PO'd on this stretch because there were a steady stream of cars and trucks all traveling really fast - 90 to 100 mph and you'd find yourself squeezed front and rear in a high speed caravan. It made pulling off and shooting pics a real pain due to the fear of getting creamed from the rear.
From Hwy 6 I took I-70 east to the Moab cutoff. That stretch of 70 has some interesting views to the north of the desert mountains. Coming into the Moab area was exciting. As the first red rocks began to be visible, the excitement came up. Dropping down into the canyon as you approach Moab is just breath-taking. Really beautiful!
It was approaching sundown when I got into Moab so I checked into a room hurriedly and left most of my gear there, zooming off to ride through the Arches park as the sun was setting.
I barely got into the park, stopping frequently to shoot pics - the sun was low and beautiful on the red rocks.
Rain through the canyon
I stopped at one point to shoot a pic when suddenly the cloud overhead burst into heavy rain - it was the only cloud over the park and the last thing I expected was rain in this intense heat. The rain became a serious downpour and I had left my rain gear at the hotel! As I scrambled to find something to cover with and realizing I was gonna be soaked to the bone in a minute, a small white pickup pulled right behind me and I saw someone waving for me to get in. I grabbed my helmet, tank bag and sheepskin seat cover and dove in the cab as the wind and rain burst on us.
The cab was filled with smoke from an "unknown" substance and the Moody Blues were jamming on the CD player. Sopping wet I looked at the driver and said thanks, not sure what I was getting into. The woman behind the wheel laughed at my predicament and said "Boy, aren't you lucky I was here!" Turns out she lives in Moab and spends a lot of time exploring the park and photographing extensively there.
This pretty well describes the atmosphere of the cab
The bike is over there somewhere under the rain
Since it was raining she drove me around a large area of the park and explained various areas, etc. She was a great tour guide and told me the best spots for images. It was getting dark and the rain cloud had moved on so she dropped me back at the bike and went on. It had gotten dark as I got my gear back on the bike. I stood there for a while in the silence and watched the moon rise over a peak.
As it got cool, I started the bike and rode back out of the park and into the town where I ate at McStiff's before crashing.
It was a long hot ride today but Moab was worth it for sure!
The Route:
The Unladen Swallow... European... not African... no, wait...
This morning I had breakfast at the motel and while packing the bike had a conversation with a nice guy from Canada who was loading up his 85 Goldwing. He'd been making a loop from Canada through the western U. S. and was headed back north. He said he could barely talk from the smoke of forest fires he'd ridden through and I'd had a sore throat all day for the same reason. Wished each other well and headed off in opposite directions.
Mmmmmmm... egg-like substance and coffee
I-84 from Twin Falls towards Salt Lake City was flat, hot and windy so I just pegged the throttle and leaned the bike into the wind gusts.
Leaving Twin Falls
As I eventually got near the Utah border, a few mountains began to rise on the horizon and the telltale wisps of smoke from forest fires could be seen.
There's a far over thar
Further south near the border there were mutiple fires so I pulled off the road and headed up a farm road to try and get closer. I could see a large chopper dropping water on the flames but the road through the fields began to get extremely deep in powder dust - about 8 to 10 inches and the pig became a real handful. I finally decided to give up and turned around just as a forest service truck came by and doused me in dust.
Back on the highway to Salt Lake and crossing the border into Utah the scenery got pretty nice considering it was interstate. The heat increased as well as the wind and I eventually hit Salt Lake around noon or 1 and the traffic was "intense". Fast, congested and full of jerks going 95mph. I was dehydrated and needed a break so I grabbed a burger at Fuddruckers and cooled off for about an hour.
Forming my evil plan...
The goal was Moab and so Hwy 6 at Spanish Fork just south of Provo was the road. A huge plume of smoke was rising like a mushroom cloud from the mountains south of me as I headed into the canyon on Hwy 6.
Fire south of Provo
Hwy 6 turned out to be a great ride - lots of canyons and scenery.
Just before Price there were some great rock formations. At Price I pulled off to find a cold drink and more water. I reaaaally went through the fluids today...
After Price, the road drops into beautiful and lonely desert mountains - really beautiful but dry and hot.
One note - I got PO'd on this stretch because there were a steady stream of cars and trucks all traveling really fast - 90 to 100 mph and you'd find yourself squeezed front and rear in a high speed caravan. It made pulling off and shooting pics a real pain due to the fear of getting creamed from the rear.
From Hwy 6 I took I-70 east to the Moab cutoff. That stretch of 70 has some interesting views to the north of the desert mountains. Coming into the Moab area was exciting. As the first red rocks began to be visible, the excitement came up. Dropping down into the canyon as you approach Moab is just breath-taking. Really beautiful!
It was approaching sundown when I got into Moab so I checked into a room hurriedly and left most of my gear there, zooming off to ride through the Arches park as the sun was setting.
I barely got into the park, stopping frequently to shoot pics - the sun was low and beautiful on the red rocks.
Rain through the canyon
I stopped at one point to shoot a pic when suddenly the cloud overhead burst into heavy rain - it was the only cloud over the park and the last thing I expected was rain in this intense heat. The rain became a serious downpour and I had left my rain gear at the hotel! As I scrambled to find something to cover with and realizing I was gonna be soaked to the bone in a minute, a small white pickup pulled right behind me and I saw someone waving for me to get in. I grabbed my helmet, tank bag and sheepskin seat cover and dove in the cab as the wind and rain burst on us.
The cab was filled with smoke from an "unknown" substance and the Moody Blues were jamming on the CD player. Sopping wet I looked at the driver and said thanks, not sure what I was getting into. The woman behind the wheel laughed at my predicament and said "Boy, aren't you lucky I was here!" Turns out she lives in Moab and spends a lot of time exploring the park and photographing extensively there.
This pretty well describes the atmosphere of the cab
The bike is over there somewhere under the rain
Since it was raining she drove me around a large area of the park and explained various areas, etc. She was a great tour guide and told me the best spots for images. It was getting dark and the rain cloud had moved on so she dropped me back at the bike and went on. It had gotten dark as I got my gear back on the bike. I stood there for a while in the silence and watched the moon rise over a peak.
As it got cool, I started the bike and rode back out of the park and into the town where I ate at McStiff's before crashing.
It was a long hot ride today but Moab was worth it for sure!
The Route:
Last edited:
Day 4: Moab, UT to Ridgway, CO
This morning I got a late start - checked the bike over for tire pressure, oil level, yada yada and headed back into Arches Nat'l Park. Even in the rising heat and ugly light it is stunning. I made it all the way through on each of the paved roads until I spotted a gravel road heading off into the wash area.
The road was mainly gravel and washboard but it felt good to be on dirt and heading away from touristas. Eventually I reached the bottom of the wash where the gravel and sand ended and the road became sand. It looked pretty soft but I decided to go ahead. Famous last words
About 50 yards in the sand got so deep I was getting seasick from the wallowing pig and decided to turn around. With the oil tanker turning radius of the pig, I attempted to turn in the road since the sides looked even deeper. As I got sideways and realizing I wouldn't make the turn I nailed the throttle to try and powerslide the rear end around to avoid having to stop... of course I wasn't factoring in all the weight of my gear and the pig got traction...
I shot over into the soft deep sand just off the road edge and tried to finesse the beast out of the deep stuff. Right. It was like riding in slow motion on the back of a whale as I kept the throttle on and finally the bike buried about 8" deep, nose pointing into the really deep stuff. I killed the throttle before I headed down into the sand like a Worm from "Dune".
I jumped off the bike and started pulling all the gear off, tossing it behind me and the bike. After losing about 80 lbs of cases, I got back on to see if I could miraculously float the bike across the sand. Not. It buried the front end deeper. Looking back I had half burried the cases in dirt from the rear tire.
oops
It was hot, and I was alone in the small wash so I did it the old fashioned way - I lifted the rear of the bike and swung it back onto the 4" deep sand on the road and after about 10 minutes of yanking back on the bars, sweating and moving the bike rearward an inch at a time I finally got the monster back on the road. Hot, sweating like a pig and thirsty, I sucked the Camelbak dry and then loaded the gear back on the beast. It started and I wallowed forward, tacking from side to side like a sailboat until I finally hit some gravel and got some traction. It was fun
From Arches I went back north to Canyonlands. The road in was a great ride in itself and the higher altitude was a couple of degrees cooler. In the park there are a lot of small S curves and it was fun trying to wear the square edges off my tires.
The road to the park
The sights and canyons in the park are just stunning. In fact they're not just stunning they're Moabulous
I really enjoyed Canyonlands as well as Arches. Moab is just a great place to ride and I'll definitely come back
and spend time here again. I'd like to do some of the backroads and explore the area - maybe on an XR or similar bike. What a cool place! As MacArthur said, "I shall return." or as Arnold said, "I'll be bok".
Headed south on 191 from Moab and caught 46 east towards Colorado and the Telluride area. 46 is actually a great road - scenic and very little traffic - in fact on my ride I saw maybe 6 cars on the entire run. As I neared La Sal, I could see rain and darkness ahead so I stopped and swapped the armor out of my Triumph mesh jacket into the Belstaff.
It was still warm but I soon hit small showers and the temps dropped. The road got better and better as it neared Colorado and turned into Colorado 90. There were some long stretches but the road was great and got into long twisties and canyons. Really a great ride!
Bedrock - the old store is for sale
San Miguel Valley
On the horizon I could see black storm clouds over the Telluride area and knew I was heading into rain. Stopped at the intersection of 90 and 141 to check my map and in a couple of minutes a rider pulled in next to me. He was returning to Denver from a trip out to Phoenix and surrounding areas and had come up 191 from Arizona just a few minutes behind me. He said 191 from AZ was a really great road with excellent mountains. While we talked another rider on a Harley stopped and asked the way to Moab. We directed him back on 46 and then each headed our separate ways.
Jumped into my rain gear outside - used the odor to make me hurry :O
The temp continued to drop and I finally stopped and got my gloves and rain pants. Temp gauge showed about 50 degrees and the skies got darker. At Placerville the road towards Ridgway looked a little less threatening for black clouds so I decided to go for Ouray rather than Telluride. The rain came and stayed as sprinkles and bursts (sounds like a name for candy).
Rain over Ouray
Cool little partial rainbow on the way
Great road but I got hung up behind some slow trucks and began losing the light. I pulled off for a pic and was passed by a couple on a Harley - wet and freezing - and as I pulled out behind them he suddenly locked the brakes and swerved - barely missing two deer who had bolted across the road in the low light. He drove much slower after the close call and I passed him, trying to make Ridgway before dark. The road was wet and it was just at dark when I came down the pass into town, relieved to see gas stations and potentially a motel or two. I said a short prayer to find a room this late and found the Lodge there. The girl behind the counter told me they just had a room cancellation and I could have it. Woohoo! I love it when God smiles on me
I dropped the gear and headed back into the little town to eat. There is a great Thai restaurant there called Siam and the food is superb. Great little place to eat if you come through.
What a day - 100 degree temps in Moab and 50 degrees with rain three hours later. Awesome roads today and looking forward to Ouray and vicinity tomorrow - hope the weather clears!
The Route:
This morning I got a late start - checked the bike over for tire pressure, oil level, yada yada and headed back into Arches Nat'l Park. Even in the rising heat and ugly light it is stunning. I made it all the way through on each of the paved roads until I spotted a gravel road heading off into the wash area.
The road was mainly gravel and washboard but it felt good to be on dirt and heading away from touristas. Eventually I reached the bottom of the wash where the gravel and sand ended and the road became sand. It looked pretty soft but I decided to go ahead. Famous last words
About 50 yards in the sand got so deep I was getting seasick from the wallowing pig and decided to turn around. With the oil tanker turning radius of the pig, I attempted to turn in the road since the sides looked even deeper. As I got sideways and realizing I wouldn't make the turn I nailed the throttle to try and powerslide the rear end around to avoid having to stop... of course I wasn't factoring in all the weight of my gear and the pig got traction...
I shot over into the soft deep sand just off the road edge and tried to finesse the beast out of the deep stuff. Right. It was like riding in slow motion on the back of a whale as I kept the throttle on and finally the bike buried about 8" deep, nose pointing into the really deep stuff. I killed the throttle before I headed down into the sand like a Worm from "Dune".
I jumped off the bike and started pulling all the gear off, tossing it behind me and the bike. After losing about 80 lbs of cases, I got back on to see if I could miraculously float the bike across the sand. Not. It buried the front end deeper. Looking back I had half burried the cases in dirt from the rear tire.
oops
It was hot, and I was alone in the small wash so I did it the old fashioned way - I lifted the rear of the bike and swung it back onto the 4" deep sand on the road and after about 10 minutes of yanking back on the bars, sweating and moving the bike rearward an inch at a time I finally got the monster back on the road. Hot, sweating like a pig and thirsty, I sucked the Camelbak dry and then loaded the gear back on the beast. It started and I wallowed forward, tacking from side to side like a sailboat until I finally hit some gravel and got some traction. It was fun
From Arches I went back north to Canyonlands. The road in was a great ride in itself and the higher altitude was a couple of degrees cooler. In the park there are a lot of small S curves and it was fun trying to wear the square edges off my tires.
The road to the park
The sights and canyons in the park are just stunning. In fact they're not just stunning they're Moabulous
I really enjoyed Canyonlands as well as Arches. Moab is just a great place to ride and I'll definitely come back
and spend time here again. I'd like to do some of the backroads and explore the area - maybe on an XR or similar bike. What a cool place! As MacArthur said, "I shall return." or as Arnold said, "I'll be bok".
Headed south on 191 from Moab and caught 46 east towards Colorado and the Telluride area. 46 is actually a great road - scenic and very little traffic - in fact on my ride I saw maybe 6 cars on the entire run. As I neared La Sal, I could see rain and darkness ahead so I stopped and swapped the armor out of my Triumph mesh jacket into the Belstaff.
It was still warm but I soon hit small showers and the temps dropped. The road got better and better as it neared Colorado and turned into Colorado 90. There were some long stretches but the road was great and got into long twisties and canyons. Really a great ride!
Bedrock - the old store is for sale
San Miguel Valley
On the horizon I could see black storm clouds over the Telluride area and knew I was heading into rain. Stopped at the intersection of 90 and 141 to check my map and in a couple of minutes a rider pulled in next to me. He was returning to Denver from a trip out to Phoenix and surrounding areas and had come up 191 from Arizona just a few minutes behind me. He said 191 from AZ was a really great road with excellent mountains. While we talked another rider on a Harley stopped and asked the way to Moab. We directed him back on 46 and then each headed our separate ways.
Jumped into my rain gear outside - used the odor to make me hurry :O
The temp continued to drop and I finally stopped and got my gloves and rain pants. Temp gauge showed about 50 degrees and the skies got darker. At Placerville the road towards Ridgway looked a little less threatening for black clouds so I decided to go for Ouray rather than Telluride. The rain came and stayed as sprinkles and bursts (sounds like a name for candy).
Rain over Ouray
Cool little partial rainbow on the way
Great road but I got hung up behind some slow trucks and began losing the light. I pulled off for a pic and was passed by a couple on a Harley - wet and freezing - and as I pulled out behind them he suddenly locked the brakes and swerved - barely missing two deer who had bolted across the road in the low light. He drove much slower after the close call and I passed him, trying to make Ridgway before dark. The road was wet and it was just at dark when I came down the pass into town, relieved to see gas stations and potentially a motel or two. I said a short prayer to find a room this late and found the Lodge there. The girl behind the counter told me they just had a room cancellation and I could have it. Woohoo! I love it when God smiles on me
I dropped the gear and headed back into the little town to eat. There is a great Thai restaurant there called Siam and the food is superb. Great little place to eat if you come through.
What a day - 100 degree temps in Moab and 50 degrees with rain three hours later. Awesome roads today and looking forward to Ouray and vicinity tomorrow - hope the weather clears!
The Route:
Last edited:
M38A1
Admin
Excellent! Keep it coming....
Very nice pics, looks like you are having way to much fun.
Simmons1
0
- Joined
- May 29, 2005
- Messages
- 6,041
- Reaction score
- 1,871
- Location
- Out Riding
- First Name
- Rich
- Last Name
- Simmons
Nice report and pics!
I see you stopped a few more time than I did! LOL
I see you stopped a few more time than I did! LOL
WYbear
0
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2007
- Messages
- 5
- Reaction score
- 0
- Location
- Austin, TX
- First Name
- Vince
- Last Name
- Smith
Hey TinStar,
I saw you in Cody on your trip. I was in Cody visiting my parents during the fourth of July celebrations. When you mentioned that you rode down main street at the end of the parade, that reminded me of the moment I saw you. When the parade ended, I found it interesting to see a motorcycle at the end. I remember seeing you because someone asked me if I had seen that kind of bike. In addition, my brother works at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center and said he saw "this funky BMW dirt bike" the day you visited.
The Senator you were standing next to, Dr. John Barasso, is the new replacement for the late Senator Craig Thomas. Just FYI.
I saw you in Cody on your trip. I was in Cody visiting my parents during the fourth of July celebrations. When you mentioned that you rode down main street at the end of the parade, that reminded me of the moment I saw you. When the parade ended, I found it interesting to see a motorcycle at the end. I remember seeing you because someone asked me if I had seen that kind of bike. In addition, my brother works at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center and said he saw "this funky BMW dirt bike" the day you visited.
The Senator you were standing next to, Dr. John Barasso, is the new replacement for the late Senator Craig Thomas. Just FYI.
Hey Wybear - that's cool! I had a great time and glad to know we were in the same place at the same time. I'm wondering if I had a little monkey in a sequin suit dancing on my helmet if they'd let me ride in the parade next year? 
The museum there is just great - I'm envious of your brother getting to work and live there. Thanks for letting me know
Thumper, I'm using a Panasonic LX1 - it's a little quirky and not fast to use but it has a Leica lens and I like the 16:9 format. I'd like a camera that's really slim like the Sony's but the wide angle Leica lens is worth the foibles - to me at least
The museum there is just great - I'm envious of your brother getting to work and live there. Thanks for letting me know
Thumper, I'm using a Panasonic LX1 - it's a little quirky and not fast to use but it has a Leica lens and I like the 16:9 format. I'd like a camera that's really slim like the Sony's but the wide angle Leica lens is worth the foibles - to me at least
Day 5: A Day in Ouray
I didn't get much sleep so I woke up groggy and headed the 10 miles for Ouray and coffee. Never really woke up so I decided to just hang out in the town and have a rest day - plus I didn't relish the idea of dropping the bike on a pass road when I'm not clear headed
Leaving Ridgway for the treacherous 10 mile ride to Ouray
Ouray was nice and cool, and I hung out art the coffee shop and watched all the bikes come and go through town. Lots of variety with a lot of GS's, KTM's, dirt bikes and the mix of Harleys.
This is just wrong...
Aaaaaah, Ouray
I went in search of a campsite for the night and found one (supposedly) at the Amphitheatre Campground. The folks were still occupying so I rode back to town to get more coffee and hang out a bit more. About 3 pm I went back to the campsite to find it still occupied so I made another run to town for laundry duty. My life just can't possibly get more exciting...
The laundromat
The washing machines - guess which one I was using
Anyway after a lengthy discussion with a lady from Louisiana in the laundromat (dang I should have used more Downy on my undies!) I headed back up to the campground again and found the host who explained the campers had been mountain climbing and got back late and tired. He said I could pitch my tent on his friends pad at 1/2 the camping price so that was cool with me. I asked if I needed to do a bear bag and he said "No, the only bears are in town." I thought he was joking and said I'd seen two in the bar as well as a hefer... but found out he was serious. He said they'd been spotted around the hot springs pool area just yesterday. Makes me wonder if they see the hot steaming pool filled with people as Caldo de Res? Caldo de Pollo???
No comment
It had been sunny most of the day and was actually pretty hot so I decided to go for a swim at the hot springs. As I finished pitching the tent and headed down to town again, the rain came in and by the time I got to the springs they had closed the pool. Grrrrrr. Bummed, I rode back to town in the rain and ate at the Mexican Restaurant there - can't remember the name but it's the one with all the dollar bills stuck on the ceiling.
I had several conversations with riders today - one on an 08 KLR who was riding from Seattle to the Southwest. We talked a long time and he'd been behind me a few miles through Idaho and Utah and even Moab. He liked the bike but said in Utah with the strong headwinds the bike was really pushing to maintain 75 mph and burned a lot of oil on that run. He said that was the only oil the bike had used. My GS burned oil on the leg as well - it was the first I've had to add - about half a pint or more. One thing I must say is the GS handled the winds fine as far as power - it just motored along as usual - the diff between a dual 1100 with a lot of torque and a 650 thumper. We discussed the passes and roads around here before he headed out.
That's him
A few minutes later I saw a red and white airhead GS PD with a couple taking pictures of each other. I volunteered to shoot them together and we talked a bit. They were from Dallas and had flown to Idaho to buy the 93 PD and were riding back to Texas. Great bike and I wish I had one
That's them
Earlier this morning there was a herd (gaggle? pack? school?) of DS's at the coffee shop - KTM's and others and the guys were loading up on a run into the mountains. Boy I wished I had an XR 650 so I could have tagged along - waaaaah
The main response I seem to get about the bike is the shock that I'm riding alone. Even bikers seem to be surprised. Hmmmm. A buddy would be nice for the tricky roads but it ain't no big deal. The latest was a drunk Harley rider and friends who seemed to be amazed at the thought of riding a GS alone and on back roads. They invited me to the bar for more discussion
Hopefully this is the driver's bike...
This cool/cold weather is sooooooooooo nice... In fact I'm sitting on a bench at dusk enjoying the fall-like weather and posting this - picking up wifi from the coffee shop across the street. I'm also getting ogled in my shorts, hiking shoes and Belstaff jacket typing on my Mac by the tourists walking by. He he he! Ok, it's getting cold now so I'm leaving...
I didn't get much sleep so I woke up groggy and headed the 10 miles for Ouray and coffee. Never really woke up so I decided to just hang out in the town and have a rest day - plus I didn't relish the idea of dropping the bike on a pass road when I'm not clear headed
Leaving Ridgway for the treacherous 10 mile ride to Ouray
Ouray was nice and cool, and I hung out art the coffee shop and watched all the bikes come and go through town. Lots of variety with a lot of GS's, KTM's, dirt bikes and the mix of Harleys.
This is just wrong...
Aaaaaah, Ouray
I went in search of a campsite for the night and found one (supposedly) at the Amphitheatre Campground. The folks were still occupying so I rode back to town to get more coffee and hang out a bit more. About 3 pm I went back to the campsite to find it still occupied so I made another run to town for laundry duty. My life just can't possibly get more exciting...
The laundromat
The washing machines - guess which one I was using
Anyway after a lengthy discussion with a lady from Louisiana in the laundromat (dang I should have used more Downy on my undies!) I headed back up to the campground again and found the host who explained the campers had been mountain climbing and got back late and tired. He said I could pitch my tent on his friends pad at 1/2 the camping price so that was cool with me. I asked if I needed to do a bear bag and he said "No, the only bears are in town." I thought he was joking and said I'd seen two in the bar as well as a hefer... but found out he was serious. He said they'd been spotted around the hot springs pool area just yesterday. Makes me wonder if they see the hot steaming pool filled with people as Caldo de Res? Caldo de Pollo???
No comment
It had been sunny most of the day and was actually pretty hot so I decided to go for a swim at the hot springs. As I finished pitching the tent and headed down to town again, the rain came in and by the time I got to the springs they had closed the pool. Grrrrrr. Bummed, I rode back to town in the rain and ate at the Mexican Restaurant there - can't remember the name but it's the one with all the dollar bills stuck on the ceiling.
I had several conversations with riders today - one on an 08 KLR who was riding from Seattle to the Southwest. We talked a long time and he'd been behind me a few miles through Idaho and Utah and even Moab. He liked the bike but said in Utah with the strong headwinds the bike was really pushing to maintain 75 mph and burned a lot of oil on that run. He said that was the only oil the bike had used. My GS burned oil on the leg as well - it was the first I've had to add - about half a pint or more. One thing I must say is the GS handled the winds fine as far as power - it just motored along as usual - the diff between a dual 1100 with a lot of torque and a 650 thumper. We discussed the passes and roads around here before he headed out.
That's him
A few minutes later I saw a red and white airhead GS PD with a couple taking pictures of each other. I volunteered to shoot them together and we talked a bit. They were from Dallas and had flown to Idaho to buy the 93 PD and were riding back to Texas. Great bike and I wish I had one
That's them
Earlier this morning there was a herd (gaggle? pack? school?) of DS's at the coffee shop - KTM's and others and the guys were loading up on a run into the mountains. Boy I wished I had an XR 650 so I could have tagged along - waaaaah
The main response I seem to get about the bike is the shock that I'm riding alone. Even bikers seem to be surprised. Hmmmm. A buddy would be nice for the tricky roads but it ain't no big deal. The latest was a drunk Harley rider and friends who seemed to be amazed at the thought of riding a GS alone and on back roads. They invited me to the bar for more discussion
Hopefully this is the driver's bike...
This cool/cold weather is sooooooooooo nice... In fact I'm sitting on a bench at dusk enjoying the fall-like weather and posting this - picking up wifi from the coffee shop across the street. I'm also getting ogled in my shorts, hiking shoes and Belstaff jacket typing on my Mac by the tourists walking by. He he he! Ok, it's getting cold now so I'm leaving...
Last edited:
WYbear
0
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2007
- Messages
- 5
- Reaction score
- 0
- Location
- Austin, TX
- First Name
- Vince
- Last Name
- Smith
TinStar,
Thanks for taking the time to fill us in on your voyage. I have been to several of the places you have visited and that is why I am so curious to read about your trip. I can relate because I have been on the same roads. Unfortunately, my trips have been in the cage. Some day I will be able to ride over Beartooth Pass like yourself.
Next time you are in Cody, my parent's would gladly host you so you don't have another bad experience like you had at the motel. Motels like the one you stayed at should be torn down.
Thanks again for the chronicles of your journey. Stay safe.
Thanks for taking the time to fill us in on your voyage. I have been to several of the places you have visited and that is why I am so curious to read about your trip. I can relate because I have been on the same roads. Unfortunately, my trips have been in the cage. Some day I will be able to ride over Beartooth Pass like yourself.
Next time you are in Cody, my parent's would gladly host you so you don't have another bad experience like you had at the motel. Motels like the one you stayed at should be torn down.
Thanks again for the chronicles of your journey. Stay safe.
Thanks Wybear - I just may take them up on it next time. 
I loved Cody - neat town and my kinda place. A bike sure makes the trips a lot different. What is intolerably boring and long in a car is always interesting on a bike. See ya!
I loved Cody - neat town and my kinda place. A bike sure makes the trips a lot different. What is intolerably boring and long in a car is always interesting on a bike. See ya!
Day 6: Ouray - Silverton - Cimarron Pass - Lake City
The Amphitheatre campground is a nice one, nestled high over the town with great views of Ouray. My designated camping site had a magnificent view of the campground dumpster, so it was cool with me that I pitched my tent at the host's campsite.
Ouray from Amphitheater road
Laying in the tent at night and listening to the various sounds and conversations of others around the campground is always "entertaining". To my right I heard someone laughing continuously and talking with a terrible British accent. It sounded exactly like Mike Myers from Saturday night live when he'd do Keith Richards imitation. In fact, I was convinced Mike was camping next to me for quite some time, until I finally realized this was real. I like hearing Brit accents but this guy was bad and obviously drunk and laughed continuously.
My thoughts were interrupted by the late arrival of the campers to my left and a sudden horrible ripping sound, followed immediately by the giggling voice of a woman saying "I told you barking spiders were indigenous to Colorado!" Whether they are or not, the one she had with her was big enough be on a leash.
The next morning while making my breakfast of champions, my host came out and we had a good talk. I'd noticed his license plate showed "10th Mountain Division" and I mentioned what I knew about the elite unit from WWII. He told me his background of having been a mountain climber and ski jumper in upstate NY before joining the unit. He said his father was Oliver Perry-Smith, a well renowned mountaineer who was highly respected in Europe for his climbs. He brought out a book and photos of his father's climbing experiences and told me to Google his dad for more info. We talked of the experiences his unit went through in WWII and he mentioned a movie is about to be released on the story of one battle. I really enjoyed listening to him and was honored to meet him. He looked to be about 80, but his eyes were as sharp and clear as a young man. He said he would winter in Steamboat Springs and ski all year. He winked and said "Don't ever get old" as he walked away. I always enjoy meeting and talking with older folks - so many treasures that are bypassed.
Mmmmm....
As I headed out of the campground I saw "Brian" who had invited me to share his campsite earlier. He was loaded for bear with a truck and trailer hauling a Toyota FJ and a KTM as well as lots of other goodies. Brian was from Gainesville Texas and was heading up Engineer Pass today. We wished each other well and I headed down for coffee in town.
The bike was loaded up and I was headed to Silverton but took the road to Yankee Boy Basin to see how the bike would handle the pass roads loaded.
Entering the pass road to the basin
The ride up was great, and eventually got to be quite a challenge with all the water from the recent rains. I had to focus intently as the bike was a handful and some of the areas were really tricky. When I reached the top, about a 1/4 mile form the absolute top of the road I had to stop for a breather and walked up a bit further. I could tell there was no way to reach the last 1/4 mile as the road had a stream running down the width of the road and was loose rock at a very steep incline. Without the gear I'd have gone for it but not loaded. There were a few atv's there and I talked with three guys from Missouri who had been doing the passes. They concurred with my decision not to go the last little bit of the trail, saying they had had difficulty on their four wheelers.
Reminds of the motel I stayed in in Cody
Yuppie jam
At the top... almost
These Missouri boys spotted some rams up on the cliffs
The ride back down was a challenge as well with the wet rocks and the pig, made even moreso by the occasional jeep stopped in the middle of the road. At one point I crested a rise on a really tricky section to find a crew cab diesel parked dead center in the road. I managed to get by it and was committed to one thin line only to find a fat tourist woman in little white tennis shoes teetering and wobbling like an oversized ballerina right down the line I was on. There was no other line to take and I had to lock it up and almost crash to miss her. Some folks are clueless. Grrrr.
A little further down the pass, I saw a gaggle of mx bikes and riders having come off Imogene pass and consulting their maps. In a show of bravado I flew past, getting major air and doing a full lock crossup on the pig, shouting "Posers!" and flashing the Hook' em Horns sign in midair before landing full throttle and showering them with roost.
Actually that's a lie but I did get some looks when I shot past on the overloaded pig. I think they saw it as somewhat of a challenge as they raced after me and passed me further down. It was fun.
Back on the blacktop I headed down the Million Dollar Highway, and had only gone a short distance when a Harley biker passed in the other lane motioning "down" with his hand. I rounded the next bend to see an accident on a sharp curve. EMS and police were there having just loaded the rider into the ambulance. Looked like a Harley with ape hanger bars had hit a car. Guessing the bike either slid or couldn't make the sharp curve or the car had come into the lane. I said a prayer for the rider as I went past and on to Silverton. I picked up an 1150GS with Jesse's and rode behind him for a ways, enjoying the beautiful highway and scenery.
Looking back towards Ouray
On to Silverton
Silverton was a fun town. Hadn't been there in years and forgot how much I liked it. It was relatively tourist free and I found out later the trains had been blocked by a rockslide - explains the lack of touristas.
I searched the little shops for a new lighter, since my fancy little survival torch lighter had decided to fracture and dump the butane - nothing like having a survival lighter in your emergency kit only to find it dead. Grrrrr. Zippo to the rescue until I find a better one.
KLRton
Next to one of the shops, I saw a couple of KLR's and riders so I struck up conversation. Ken and Ben, father and son, were from Austin and heading up Engineer Pass over to Lake City. I had decided to go Cinnamon to Lake City as my friend Robert suggested since the bike was loaded down. We agreed to have a beer in Lake City if we met up.
Waah waah waah - I want one!
Earlier in Ouray I had asked several local riders about Engineer and got mixed reviews on the rideability with a GS. Half said it was doable and the other half said the Ouray side was too much loose rock. I was tempted to go for it but decided to go the safer route since the bike was loaded to the gills.
Having bought some pricey elk jerky and a cheap Zippo, I headed to the bike and while stuffing the tankbag saw a biker couple sitting on a bench looking at the Beemer. I overheard them talking to someone and mentioning they were from Lubbock so we started talking. In the midst of conversation an SUV did a donut in the street and pulled over behind my bike. The driver rolled down the window and asked if I wanted to sell the GS for "cash right now". No thanks dude!
Back to my conversation with the couple, they were hardcore bikers who were now in Christian bike and prison ministry. That is near and dear to my heart having worked in homeless and street ministries myself. A group of them had ridden up from Lubbock for a couple of days and were having a good time. A couple of other guys came up and we had a good conversation. Before I left, they gathered around and prayed a great prayer over me and for my protection on the rest of my trip. What a neat group of sold-out Christians.
My new buds - "Mountain" is the little guy in the flag bandana
I grabbed lunch at the Brown Bear Cafe and checked my maps, enjoying the food and dessert - hot blueberry cobbler covered with ice cream and whipped cream in honor of my friend Robert
Who is this dude?????
Coming out of the cafe I found a KTM rider hanging out near the GS and we talked for a while. Tom was up from California and had a shiny new 525 he was planning on getting dirty in the area. I realized my Camelbak was empty and went into a shop for a few bottles of water. When I came out and was filling the pouch. a guy walked over to look at the bike and we started talking. It turned out to be non-other than the world-famous "Roger" from Terlingua, TX.
Roger aka "Uncle"
He'd been up for the Horizon's Unlimited event that my friend Robert had come to, then had gone to the BMW event at Paonia(?) and was now camping and hanging out in the area. I hadn't realized there was a Beemer event and had missed it by a day. It was cool to meet Roger and talk riding.
It was clouding up as I headed out for Animas Forks and Cinnamon Pass and the temp began to drop as I headed up into the pass. The whole area is just great, and I passed many trailers and campsites with atv's and dirt bikes on the way up.
The pass road got a little more challenging until I reached the split for Cinnamon and Engineer pass. The road up Cinnamon got suddenly steep and rocky but the pig took it all in stride. There were areas where I had to really stay focused and concentrate through the tough spots - once I committed it was serious work almost all the way to the top. I wanted to get more shots but there just wasn't a way to get stopped on the steep loose uphills. The overloaded pig handled the tough stuff surprisingly well - certainly not like and\ XR and I was sweating in some spots, but considering the load I was carrying it did well. I couldn't really stand up on the pegs because the bucking rear end would toss the tent and pad forward under my rear and then I couldn't sit down on the bike. I had to do the ride sitting which made picking my way through rocky sections a little tougher.
Almost to the top of Cinnamon
When I finally reached the top, I was met with a blast of cold air and high wind from the Lake City side. Black clouds were ahead and I hoped and prayed the rain would hold off until I got further down. I didn't relish the thought of the 700 lb pig going down steep rocky areas covered in water. I took a break at the top and there were a group of atv riders up there. The women offered to take a pic of me by the sign which I appreciated. Turns out they were a couple of families from Oklahoma and had all ridden up on atv's. Three of the riders were 10 year old boys and one had come over to see my bike. He was beaming proud of his ride up and the helmet he was wearing - but he also wanted me to know he was wearing a Camelbak too. I gave him a "high five" for his accomplishment. His father wanted to know more about the Beemer as he had been wanting an adventure bike to do trips like mine. As we talked a red Toyota FJ crested the top and I heard "Hey Joseph!" - it was Brian from Amphitheatre campground - he had done Engineer and then Cinnamon in the Toy. We said our "seeya's" and I thanked them for the pics and headed on down the mountain to try and beat the rain.
Poser
The ride down was great with some tough spots for sure, and on the way I began to really appreciate this bike. No, it's not a 250 lb KTM or 300 lb XR, but the beast handles decently considering all the gear on it and my riding weight. What bike can ride like it's on rails for hours on end through strong headwinds and long hiways and then do a decent if not challenging job loaded like a bus on high mountain pass roads? Undoubtedly the Ohlins have made the difference on this ride, and they especially earned their (my?) money on these pass roads. Maybe I'm just getting my off-road legs again or maybe I'm beginning to see what the pig is truly capable of. This bike really impresses me.
Heading down to Lake City
Once out of the really tricky stuff, the rain started and I rode the last miles to Lake City and a gentle downpour. The cold stinging rain on my face as I wound down the mountain is something I'll remember a long time.
Lake City was wet and rainy and as I passed through the town I saw nothing but "NO Vacancy". Wondering if I'd have to go on to Gunnison, I finally passed the Quiet Moose Lodge outside of the town and pulled in. I was greeted by "Bruno" - dressed in chef whites with a French accent who had a room available and put me down for 7 pm reservations in the little restaurant. The rooms are older but decent and I found out why I needed reservations for the restaurant. The food and atmosphere were great - what would you expect from a French chef? His wife and daughters served the food and treated the diners as if in their own home. What a great meal and what a great day!
The Route:
More tomorrow...
The Amphitheatre campground is a nice one, nestled high over the town with great views of Ouray. My designated camping site had a magnificent view of the campground dumpster, so it was cool with me that I pitched my tent at the host's campsite.
Ouray from Amphitheater road
Laying in the tent at night and listening to the various sounds and conversations of others around the campground is always "entertaining". To my right I heard someone laughing continuously and talking with a terrible British accent. It sounded exactly like Mike Myers from Saturday night live when he'd do Keith Richards imitation. In fact, I was convinced Mike was camping next to me for quite some time, until I finally realized this was real. I like hearing Brit accents but this guy was bad and obviously drunk and laughed continuously.
My thoughts were interrupted by the late arrival of the campers to my left and a sudden horrible ripping sound, followed immediately by the giggling voice of a woman saying "I told you barking spiders were indigenous to Colorado!" Whether they are or not, the one she had with her was big enough be on a leash.
The next morning while making my breakfast of champions, my host came out and we had a good talk. I'd noticed his license plate showed "10th Mountain Division" and I mentioned what I knew about the elite unit from WWII. He told me his background of having been a mountain climber and ski jumper in upstate NY before joining the unit. He said his father was Oliver Perry-Smith, a well renowned mountaineer who was highly respected in Europe for his climbs. He brought out a book and photos of his father's climbing experiences and told me to Google his dad for more info. We talked of the experiences his unit went through in WWII and he mentioned a movie is about to be released on the story of one battle. I really enjoyed listening to him and was honored to meet him. He looked to be about 80, but his eyes were as sharp and clear as a young man. He said he would winter in Steamboat Springs and ski all year. He winked and said "Don't ever get old" as he walked away. I always enjoy meeting and talking with older folks - so many treasures that are bypassed.
Mmmmm....
As I headed out of the campground I saw "Brian" who had invited me to share his campsite earlier. He was loaded for bear with a truck and trailer hauling a Toyota FJ and a KTM as well as lots of other goodies. Brian was from Gainesville Texas and was heading up Engineer Pass today. We wished each other well and I headed down for coffee in town.
The bike was loaded up and I was headed to Silverton but took the road to Yankee Boy Basin to see how the bike would handle the pass roads loaded.
Entering the pass road to the basin
The ride up was great, and eventually got to be quite a challenge with all the water from the recent rains. I had to focus intently as the bike was a handful and some of the areas were really tricky. When I reached the top, about a 1/4 mile form the absolute top of the road I had to stop for a breather and walked up a bit further. I could tell there was no way to reach the last 1/4 mile as the road had a stream running down the width of the road and was loose rock at a very steep incline. Without the gear I'd have gone for it but not loaded. There were a few atv's there and I talked with three guys from Missouri who had been doing the passes. They concurred with my decision not to go the last little bit of the trail, saying they had had difficulty on their four wheelers.
Reminds of the motel I stayed in in Cody
Yuppie jam
At the top... almost
These Missouri boys spotted some rams up on the cliffs
The ride back down was a challenge as well with the wet rocks and the pig, made even moreso by the occasional jeep stopped in the middle of the road. At one point I crested a rise on a really tricky section to find a crew cab diesel parked dead center in the road. I managed to get by it and was committed to one thin line only to find a fat tourist woman in little white tennis shoes teetering and wobbling like an oversized ballerina right down the line I was on. There was no other line to take and I had to lock it up and almost crash to miss her. Some folks are clueless. Grrrr.
A little further down the pass, I saw a gaggle of mx bikes and riders having come off Imogene pass and consulting their maps. In a show of bravado I flew past, getting major air and doing a full lock crossup on the pig, shouting "Posers!" and flashing the Hook' em Horns sign in midair before landing full throttle and showering them with roost.
Actually that's a lie
but I did get some looks when I shot past on the overloaded pig. I think they saw it as somewhat of a challenge as they raced after me and passed me further down. It was fun.
Back on the blacktop I headed down the Million Dollar Highway, and had only gone a short distance when a Harley biker passed in the other lane motioning "down" with his hand. I rounded the next bend to see an accident on a sharp curve. EMS and police were there having just loaded the rider into the ambulance. Looked like a Harley with ape hanger bars had hit a car. Guessing the bike either slid or couldn't make the sharp curve or the car had come into the lane. I said a prayer for the rider as I went past and on to Silverton. I picked up an 1150GS with Jesse's and rode behind him for a ways, enjoying the beautiful highway and scenery.
Looking back towards Ouray
On to Silverton
Silverton was a fun town. Hadn't been there in years and forgot how much I liked it. It was relatively tourist free and I found out later the trains had been blocked by a rockslide - explains the lack of touristas.
I searched the little shops for a new lighter, since my fancy little survival torch lighter had decided to fracture and dump the butane - nothing like having a survival lighter in your emergency kit only to find it dead. Grrrrr. Zippo to the rescue until I find a better one.
KLRton
Next to one of the shops, I saw a couple of KLR's and riders so I struck up conversation. Ken and Ben, father and son, were from Austin and heading up Engineer Pass over to Lake City. I had decided to go Cinnamon to Lake City as my friend Robert suggested since the bike was loaded down. We agreed to have a beer in Lake City if we met up.
Waah waah waah - I want one!
Earlier in Ouray I had asked several local riders about Engineer and got mixed reviews on the rideability with a GS. Half said it was doable and the other half said the Ouray side was too much loose rock. I was tempted to go for it but decided to go the safer route since the bike was loaded to the gills.
Having bought some pricey elk jerky and a cheap Zippo, I headed to the bike and while stuffing the tankbag saw a biker couple sitting on a bench looking at the Beemer. I overheard them talking to someone and mentioning they were from Lubbock so we started talking. In the midst of conversation an SUV did a donut in the street and pulled over behind my bike. The driver rolled down the window and asked if I wanted to sell the GS for "cash right now".
No thanks dude! Back to my conversation with the couple, they were hardcore bikers who were now in Christian bike and prison ministry. That is near and dear to my heart having worked in homeless and street ministries myself. A group of them had ridden up from Lubbock for a couple of days and were having a good time. A couple of other guys came up and we had a good conversation. Before I left, they gathered around and prayed a great prayer over me and for my protection on the rest of my trip. What a neat group of sold-out Christians.
My new buds - "Mountain" is the little guy in the flag bandana
I grabbed lunch at the Brown Bear Cafe and checked my maps, enjoying the food and dessert - hot blueberry cobbler covered with ice cream and whipped cream in honor of my friend Robert
Who is this dude?????
Coming out of the cafe I found a KTM rider hanging out near the GS and we talked for a while. Tom was up from California and had a shiny new 525 he was planning on getting dirty in the area. I realized my Camelbak was empty and went into a shop for a few bottles of water. When I came out and was filling the pouch. a guy walked over to look at the bike and we started talking. It turned out to be non-other than the world-famous "Roger" from Terlingua, TX.
Roger aka "Uncle"
He'd been up for the Horizon's Unlimited event that my friend Robert had come to, then had gone to the BMW event at Paonia(?) and was now camping and hanging out in the area. I hadn't realized there was a Beemer event and had missed it by a day. It was cool to meet Roger and talk riding.
It was clouding up as I headed out for Animas Forks and Cinnamon Pass and the temp began to drop as I headed up into the pass. The whole area is just great, and I passed many trailers and campsites with atv's and dirt bikes on the way up.
The pass road got a little more challenging until I reached the split for Cinnamon and Engineer pass. The road up Cinnamon got suddenly steep and rocky but the pig took it all in stride. There were areas where I had to really stay focused and concentrate through the tough spots - once I committed it was serious work almost all the way to the top. I wanted to get more shots but there just wasn't a way to get stopped on the steep loose uphills. The overloaded pig handled the tough stuff surprisingly well - certainly not like and\ XR and I was sweating in some spots, but considering the load I was carrying it did well. I couldn't really stand up on the pegs because the bucking rear end would toss the tent and pad forward under my rear and then I couldn't sit down on the bike. I had to do the ride sitting which made picking my way through rocky sections a little tougher.
Almost to the top of Cinnamon
When I finally reached the top, I was met with a blast of cold air and high wind from the Lake City side. Black clouds were ahead and I hoped and prayed the rain would hold off until I got further down. I didn't relish the thought of the 700 lb pig going down steep rocky areas covered in water. I took a break at the top and there were a group of atv riders up there. The women offered to take a pic of me by the sign which I appreciated. Turns out they were a couple of families from Oklahoma and had all ridden up on atv's. Three of the riders were 10 year old boys and one had come over to see my bike. He was beaming proud of his ride up and the helmet he was wearing - but he also wanted me to know he was wearing a Camelbak too.
I gave him a "high five" for his accomplishment. His father wanted to know more about the Beemer as he had been wanting an adventure bike to do trips like mine. As we talked a red Toyota FJ crested the top and I heard "Hey Joseph!" - it was Brian from Amphitheatre campground - he had done Engineer and then Cinnamon in the Toy. We said our "seeya's" and I thanked them for the pics and headed on down the mountain to try and beat the rain.Poser
The ride down was great with some tough spots for sure, and on the way I began to really appreciate this bike. No, it's not a 250 lb KTM or 300 lb XR, but the beast handles decently considering all the gear on it and my riding weight. What bike can ride like it's on rails for hours on end through strong headwinds and long hiways and then do a decent if not challenging job loaded like a bus on high mountain pass roads? Undoubtedly the Ohlins have made the difference on this ride, and they especially earned their (my?) money on these pass roads. Maybe I'm just getting my off-road legs again or maybe I'm beginning to see what the pig is truly capable of. This bike really impresses me.
Heading down to Lake City
Once out of the really tricky stuff, the rain started and I rode the last miles to Lake City and a gentle downpour. The cold stinging rain on my face as I wound down the mountain is something I'll remember a long time.
Lake City was wet and rainy and as I passed through the town I saw nothing but "NO Vacancy". Wondering if I'd have to go on to Gunnison, I finally passed the Quiet Moose Lodge outside of the town and pulled in. I was greeted by "Bruno" - dressed in chef whites with a French accent who had a room available and put me down for 7 pm reservations in the little restaurant. The rooms are older but decent and I found out why I needed reservations for the restaurant. The food and atmosphere were great - what would you expect from a French chef? His wife and daughters served the food and treated the diners as if in their own home. What a great meal and what a great day!
The Route:
More tomorrow...
Last edited:
My favoritest place in the whole world. Lake City, Cinnammon and Engineer's Pass. I'm so jealous. Great report.Day 7: Lake City to Gunnison area and back
I woke up this morning feeling crappy - I'm beginning to think it's that small bird I swallowed between Ouray and Silverton. Spent the morning in Lake City before heading north to Gunnison.
Morning over Lake City
Downtown
Posting from the library's wifi
I caught 149 North towards Gunnison and it turned out to be a beautiful road and a great ride. The scenery was good and the road was a wide and fast one with big sweepers as you got further north. The sun was out and it was a great day to ride
149 North is a great stretch of road
Caught up to a 1200 GSA following two women on Harleys and tracked with them a while until the intersection of 50 and 149 where I headed east to Gunnison and the GSA went west to Montrose.
I wandered around downtown Gunnison for a bit then headed west on 50 towards Montrose. On the map, 92 split off and looked nice and twisty so I turned off, crossed the dam and then headed up.
I LOVE this bike!
This guy passed me on Cinnamon - odd looking fella but he sure knows how to drive...
Boy this toy looks like fun!
What you can't see is that there is a Beemer rider behind the trailer removing his Touratech panniers - his rack broke and he was attempting to remove the side rack and have it welded at the shop behind the trailer. Sorry I didn't get a pic so you'll just have to use your imagination
Off Highway 50
92 turned out to be one of the best roads I've ridden on. It follows the Gunnison canyon and twists and turns as it goes on the edge of cliffs higher and higher. No guardrails until you get very high up and then only a few. The road winds through aspen groves and lots of S's to suddenly swing out to the edge of spectacular views of the canyon. I must say the pucker factor was high at times.
The canyon is spectacular and just gets deeper and deeper
Look closely in the upper left corner to find the people - an idea of the massive scale of this canyon
92 is one nice road and I prefer it to the Million Dollar Highway that runs from Ouray to Silverton. It had almost no traffic and the road is in great condition. I followed it up for about 25 miles before reversing back towards Gunnison. Don't miss this road if you're anywhere near the area. Seriously.
Back on 50 after coming off 92, I spotted a dirt road that said "Lake City Cutoff". I couldn't resist the gravel road and had a ball riding it alone for 16 miles over to 149. It was rough in a few spots but a great ride.
This is the reason I ride a GS...
Nothing like riding alone through beautiful scenery
Heading south to Lake City again, I could see the rain ahead and finally ran into it for the final 10 miles of twisties through the canyon.
Though I didn't feel good today, the rides were awesome. I'd never been to the Gunnison area, and 149 was a great ride. 92 topped it by a mile and it ranks as one of the best on this trip.
The Route:
Hope I feel better tomorrow... stupid bird...
I woke up this morning feeling crappy - I'm beginning to think it's that small bird I swallowed between Ouray and Silverton. Spent the morning in Lake City before heading north to Gunnison.
Morning over Lake City
Downtown
Posting from the library's wifi
I caught 149 North towards Gunnison and it turned out to be a beautiful road and a great ride. The scenery was good and the road was a wide and fast one with big sweepers as you got further north. The sun was out and it was a great day to ride
149 North is a great stretch of road
Caught up to a 1200 GSA following two women on Harleys and tracked with them a while until the intersection of 50 and 149 where I headed east to Gunnison and the GSA went west to Montrose.
I wandered around downtown Gunnison for a bit then headed west on 50 towards Montrose. On the map, 92 split off and looked nice and twisty so I turned off, crossed the dam and then headed up.
I LOVE this bike!
This guy passed me on Cinnamon - odd looking fella but he sure knows how to drive...
Boy this toy looks like fun!
What you can't see is that there is a Beemer rider behind the trailer removing his Touratech panniers - his rack broke and he was attempting to remove the side rack and have it welded at the shop behind the trailer. Sorry I didn't get a pic so you'll just have to use your imagination
Off Highway 50
92 turned out to be one of the best roads I've ridden on. It follows the Gunnison canyon and twists and turns as it goes on the edge of cliffs higher and higher. No guardrails until you get very high up and then only a few. The road winds through aspen groves and lots of S's to suddenly swing out to the edge of spectacular views of the canyon. I must say the pucker factor was high at times.
The canyon is spectacular and just gets deeper and deeper
Look closely in the upper left corner to find the people - an idea of the massive scale of this canyon
92 is one nice road and I prefer it to the Million Dollar Highway that runs from Ouray to Silverton. It had almost no traffic and the road is in great condition. I followed it up for about 25 miles before reversing back towards Gunnison. Don't miss this road if you're anywhere near the area. Seriously.
Back on 50 after coming off 92, I spotted a dirt road that said "Lake City Cutoff". I couldn't resist the gravel road and had a ball riding it alone for 16 miles over to 149. It was rough in a few spots but a great ride.
This is the reason I ride a GS...
Nothing like riding alone through beautiful scenery
Heading south to Lake City again, I could see the rain ahead and finally ran into it for the final 10 miles of twisties through the canyon.
Though I didn't feel good today, the rides were awesome. I'd never been to the Gunnison area, and 149 was a great ride. 92 topped it by a mile and it ranks as one of the best on this trip.
The Route:
Hope I feel better tomorrow... stupid bird...
Last edited:
Day 8: Lake City to Taos
Today was a sparkling clear day and temp was in the 60's. I still felt queasy and was dealing with allergies as well so wasn't feeling great.
What's this???? A 1200GS at the same lodge...
Had breakfast in town and uploaded the last ride update before heading south on 149 towards Creed and Pagosa Springs. Had to make a quick return to the motel to pick up my jacket left it hanging in the closet when I left... ooops
149 was a beautiful ride as I headed south. Great views, clear weather and nice big sweepers and S's. The terrain began to change, as the mountains took on a more arid feel than around the Silverton area. Magnificent views and ride.
I stopped at Freemon's Store to grab a Coke to try and get revved up a little then zoomed along until Creed.
Mt. St. Helen's was erupting... not
The little town of Creede was bustling with tourists, but it had loads of character. I continued on through downtown towards the sheer canyon behind the town and was pleased to see the road went on up into the hills.
It rises sharply directly through a mine, with sheer drop-offs down to a creek filled with tourists panning in the little river. After buying the Ohlin's I was tempted to pan for gold myself to try and recoup some money for this trip
The road got tighter and steeper which filtered out most of the the tourists who were hesitating and reversing their Lexus' to avoid any chance of dirt.
The road continues up through the mountains, passing through several mines and aspen groves and up into the high country where it eventually becomes a two track through the mountains.
Here's a couple of one-handed videos I shot while riding:
Aspens and Road
Descent to Creed
A handful of mountain bikers and a couple of hikers were all I saw near the top. I rode up high through some small streams and rough areas, eventually stopping near the top when I reached a good stream crossing that was long and had a sharp uphill turn in it. I didn't want to drop the loaded bike so I stopped there.
It was quite beautiful near the top, and I hung out for a few until the tapping thoughts of making Taos made me leave.
I continued on south to Pagosa Springs and made the turnoff onto 84 and crossed into New Mexico. I felt a tinge of sadness knowing I was entering the final phase of my journey and would no longer be in such beautiful country and cool weather.
The incredible New Mexico skies took my attention as they always do - the color of the sky in New Mexico just seems to be a different blue than I've seen anywhere and I always remember it.
Continued on to Chama where I gassed up and bought a souvenir - first one of the trip then hit Tierra Amarilla and 64 for Taos.
I HAD to buy something here
About 20 miles out of Taos there was a cloud dumping rain and I caught the edge of it as I rode through the flat plains. I'm glad I only caught the edge because the wind was ferocious and the rain hit me sideways. I practically had to lay on the tank and slow to about 20 to stay on the road. Wow.
As I neared Taos, I saw several earth homes built into the ground - some with bizarre fantasy like facades. I began to notice the number of them spread over the valley - there were many. Eventually I came to the Earthship center where alternative off-the-grid energy efficient home building methods are shown. I plan to go back before leaving as I have an interest in alternative energy homes - probably without the Alice In Wonderland facades however.
I crossed the Rio Grande Gorge and stopped to go out on the bridge and snap some pics. Below on the side of the canyon was a crumpled white object which appeared to be a jeep that had been over the edge. The canyon there is quite impressive. A gaggle of pseudo ethereal artists hawked their new age crap by the roadside.
The little white spec seems to be a destroyed jeep
No, I don't need authentic Indian dream crystals
Checking in to the Super 8, I talked with two Texans on Gold Wings who had been to Los Alamos and were hitting Colorado for an event. They were quite interested in my muddy and dirty GS. We had a good talk then I grabbed something to eat and crashed.
The Route:
More tomorrow
Today was a sparkling clear day and temp was in the 60's. I still felt queasy and was dealing with allergies as well so wasn't feeling great.
What's this???? A 1200GS at the same lodge...
Had breakfast in town and uploaded the last ride update before heading south on 149 towards Creed and Pagosa Springs. Had to make a quick return to the motel to pick up my jacket
left it hanging in the closet when I left... ooops
149 was a beautiful ride as I headed south. Great views, clear weather and nice big sweepers and S's. The terrain began to change, as the mountains took on a more arid feel than around the Silverton area. Magnificent views and ride.
I stopped at Freemon's Store to grab a Coke to try and get revved up a little then zoomed along until Creed.
Mt. St. Helen's was erupting... not
The little town of Creede was bustling with tourists, but it had loads of character. I continued on through downtown towards the sheer canyon behind the town and was pleased to see the road went on up into the hills.
It rises sharply directly through a mine, with sheer drop-offs down to a creek filled with tourists panning in the little river. After buying the Ohlin's I was tempted to pan for gold myself to try and recoup some money for this trip
The road got tighter and steeper which filtered out most of the the tourists who were hesitating and reversing their Lexus' to avoid any chance of dirt.
The road continues up through the mountains, passing through several mines and aspen groves and up into the high country where it eventually becomes a two track through the mountains.
Here's a couple of one-handed videos I shot while riding:
Aspens and Road
Descent to Creed
A handful of mountain bikers and a couple of hikers were all I saw near the top. I rode up high through some small streams and rough areas, eventually stopping near the top when I reached a good stream crossing that was long and had a sharp uphill turn in it. I didn't want to drop the loaded bike so I stopped there.
It was quite beautiful near the top, and I hung out for a few until the tapping thoughts of making Taos made me leave.
I continued on south to Pagosa Springs and made the turnoff onto 84 and crossed into New Mexico. I felt a tinge of sadness knowing I was entering the final phase of my journey and would no longer be in such beautiful country and cool weather.
The incredible New Mexico skies took my attention as they always do - the color of the sky in New Mexico just seems to be a different blue than I've seen anywhere and I always remember it.
Continued on to Chama where I gassed up and bought a souvenir - first one of the trip
then hit Tierra Amarilla and 64 for Taos.
I HAD to buy something here
About 20 miles out of Taos there was a cloud dumping rain and I caught the edge of it as I rode through the flat plains. I'm glad I only caught the edge because the wind was ferocious and the rain hit me sideways. I practically had to lay on the tank and slow to about 20 to stay on the road. Wow.
As I neared Taos, I saw several earth homes built into the ground - some with bizarre fantasy like facades. I began to notice the number of them spread over the valley - there were many. Eventually I came to the Earthship center where alternative off-the-grid energy efficient home building methods are shown. I plan to go back before leaving as I have an interest in alternative energy homes - probably without the Alice In Wonderland facades however.
I crossed the Rio Grande Gorge and stopped to go out on the bridge and snap some pics. Below on the side of the canyon was a crumpled white object which appeared to be a jeep that had been over the edge. The canyon there is quite impressive. A gaggle of pseudo ethereal artists hawked their new age crap by the roadside.
The little white spec seems to be a destroyed jeep
No, I don't need authentic Indian dream crystals
Checking in to the Super 8, I talked with two Texans on Gold Wings who had been to Los Alamos and were hitting Colorado for an event. They were quite interested in my muddy and dirty GS. We had a good talk then I grabbed something to eat and crashed.
The Route:
More tomorrow
Last edited:
Glad to here you made it over Cinnanon Pass ok. After seeing your load I was glad it was you and not me going over. I road Engineer and Cinnamon yesterday. Of course I was on a Kaw. 250, which made it a whole lot easier. By the way, it was nice meeting ya. Roger (aka) Uncle
Day 9: Taos to Snyder TX
**This morning I got a call that my mother was in the hospital for minor surgery and they discovered she had cancer throughout the area so I am cutting the ride short and hauling to Dallas. I'd appreciate your prayers for her and I'll update the ride report when possible... **
Leaving Taos for Las Vegas, 518 south was a really great road. Lots of twisties and great scenery. mountains and rivers with some old adobe buildings until about Cleveland where the land begins to flatten out.
Grrrrrr...
518
Man it was depressing getting back to the flatlands!
At Las Vegas caught I-25 to 84 south. At his point it is just flat, hot and boring. At Ft. Sumner I filled up and was approached by a funny little guy. Turns out he was from Switzerland and in the midst of traveling the circumference of the world. He'd left Switzerland for Moscow then took the train across Russia, a ferry to Japan, container ship across the Pacific to Long Beach, CA where he rented a car. He had been to the Billy the Kid museum here, and was heading to Roswell. He was excited to see the BMW and told me in broken English that he had an 1100RT.
Road construction was frequent - sitting in the heat...
From there I hit Clovis and finally the Texas border at Texico. It was really hot on through Lubbock as the sun began to set. My goal was Sweetwater but I finally called it quits in Snyder when it got dark and I grabbed a cheap hotel.
The route:
I'll hit Dallas today and would appreciate prayers for my mother!
See ya!
**This morning I got a call that my mother was in the hospital for minor surgery and they discovered she had cancer throughout the area so I am cutting the ride short and hauling to Dallas. I'd appreciate your prayers for her and I'll update the ride report when possible... **
Leaving Taos for Las Vegas, 518 south was a really great road. Lots of twisties and great scenery. mountains and rivers with some old adobe buildings until about Cleveland where the land begins to flatten out.
Grrrrrr...
518
Man it was depressing getting back to the flatlands!
At Las Vegas caught I-25 to 84 south. At his point it is just flat, hot and boring. At Ft. Sumner I filled up and was approached by a funny little guy. Turns out he was from Switzerland and in the midst of traveling the circumference of the world. He'd left Switzerland for Moscow then took the train across Russia, a ferry to Japan, container ship across the Pacific to Long Beach, CA where he rented a car. He had been to the Billy the Kid museum here, and was heading to Roswell. He was excited to see the BMW and told me in broken English that he had an 1100RT.
Road construction was frequent - sitting in the heat...
From there I hit Clovis and finally the Texas border at Texico. It was really hot on through Lubbock as the sun began to set. My goal was Sweetwater but I finally called it quits in Snyder when it got dark and I grabbed a cheap hotel.
The route:
I'll hit Dallas today and would appreciate prayers for my mother!
See ya!
Last edited:
Rick
0
Hey Joseph, I have thoroughly enjoyed your trip reports. I didn't get to go to the Rockies this year since my wife wanted to go to TN so I got to enjoy them through your pics and stories. Sorry to hear about your mother. Keep us informed. Look forward to meeting you sometime.
Rick
Rick
Joseph, Prayers for your Mom.
Looks like we traveled some of the same roads. The scenery was beautiful, but the ride was the grandest of all.
Glad you made it home safe.
Looks like we traveled some of the same roads. The scenery was beautiful, but the ride was the grandest of all.
Glad you made it home safe.
lobo10s
0
- Joined
- Nov 16, 2004
- Messages
- 1,066
- Reaction score
- 242
- Location
- Bella Vista Arkansas
- First Name
- Jerry
- Last Name
- James
First of all I hope all turns out well for your mother.
This was a great ride report! Well done and the pictures were fantastic. Again great job!
This was a great ride report! Well done and the pictures were fantastic. Again great job!
alister
0
TinStar,
Thanks for a great trip report, fantastic commentary and photos. Enjoyed it immensely.
My wife died from renal cancer two years ago, she was 48. I miss her terribly.
I know what lies ahead for you and I'm thinking of you,
Good luck from Downunder,
alister
Thanks for a great trip report, fantastic commentary and photos. Enjoyed it immensely.
My wife died from renal cancer two years ago, she was 48. I miss her terribly.
I know what lies ahead for you and I'm thinking of you,
Good luck from Downunder,
alister
Thanks to everyone here and especially your prayers. My mother looks quite good considering the news and she is a strong woman of faith so we will see what comes. Again thanks to everyone here!
Alister - thank you and I'm very sorry to hear of your loss. I can't imagine what it's like... my thoughts are with you as well sir.
Rick - hope to meet you also and Jerry, look forward to hearing more about your trip! Thanks Lobo!
Day 10: Snyder to Dallas... yawn
The ride in from Snyder was pretty uninteresting after all the beauty of the mountains. I lost a couple of hours this morning having to wait outside the Pizza Hut where I ate late last night... I left my riding jacket on the seat in the booth and realized it about 7am this morning
I hung out in a local cafe and got plenty of looks from the locals - Snyder is a typical west Texas town and a guy with a bug covered jacket and ponytail got some attention
At 9am someone had finally shown up at the Pizza Inn, so I rang the back doorbell for a while to no avail. I then banged on the front door for a while and still no response from inside. I finally found a drive thru window on the back and pressed my face up to the glass and saw two girls inside ignoring me. Finally one had to acknowledge me and I shouted through the glass about my jacket. She still acted like I wasn't there, until finally wandering to the window with an attitude. Eventually she opened the window and we got it sorted out. She handed the jacket through and I was able to finally get on the road.
Luckily there was low cloud cover this morning and it stayed all the way to Dallas, keeping the temps reasonable. Approaching Ft. Worth from Weatherford the traffic thickened and became a solid high speed river of semis and pickups. I took the I-30 split and did my Matrix ride through the insane traffic - this is the first real fear I've had on the trip
Made it to Dallas with no interesting stories unless you find traffic, malls and the ubiquitous Best Buy/Petsmart/Office Depot/Chili's/Old Navy/ strip malls exciting. if you DO, we need to have a serious talk...
I'll be here a couple of days before heading back to the Hill Country by way of La Grange and Houston...
See ya and thanks again for you prayers
Alister - thank you and I'm very sorry to hear of your loss. I can't imagine what it's like... my thoughts are with you as well sir.
Rick - hope to meet you also and Jerry, look forward to hearing more about your trip! Thanks Lobo!
Day 10: Snyder to Dallas... yawn
The ride in from Snyder was pretty uninteresting after all the beauty of the mountains. I lost a couple of hours this morning having to wait outside the Pizza Hut where I ate late last night... I left my riding jacket on the seat in the booth and realized it about 7am this morning
I hung out in a local cafe and got plenty of looks from the locals - Snyder is a typical west Texas town and a guy with a bug covered jacket and ponytail got some attention At 9am someone had finally shown up at the Pizza Inn, so I rang the back doorbell for a while to no avail. I then banged on the front door for a while and still no response from inside. I finally found a drive thru window on the back and pressed my face up to the glass and saw two girls inside ignoring me. Finally one had to acknowledge me and I shouted through the glass about my jacket. She still acted like I wasn't there, until finally wandering to the window with an attitude. Eventually she opened the window and we got it sorted out. She handed the jacket through and I was able to finally get on the road.
Luckily there was low cloud cover this morning and it stayed all the way to Dallas, keeping the temps reasonable. Approaching Ft. Worth from Weatherford the traffic thickened and became a solid high speed river of semis and pickups. I took the I-30 split and did my Matrix ride through the insane traffic - this is the first real fear I've had on the trip
Made it to Dallas with no interesting stories unless you find traffic, malls and the ubiquitous Best Buy/Petsmart/Office Depot/Chili's/Old Navy/ strip malls exciting. if you DO, we need to have a serious talk...
I'll be here a couple of days before heading back to the Hill Country by way of La Grange and Houston...
See ya and thanks again for you prayers
Thanks again for the prayers for my mom. She looked good considering and they will likely remove her bladder to stop the cancer growth. It was certainly good to spend time with her. God does miracles and I pray for one.
While in Dallas, I got to connect with DaveVV who had just returned from Anchorage on his new spanky Ulysses. I gotta admit I like that bike! He was selling his 99 yellow and silver R1100GS and someone is gonna get a great deal. I wish I had the dough but after this trip I'm all out Dave, you're a neat guy and I enjoyed our visit. We gotta ride the Twisted Sisters when you come down :thumb
The day I was leaving Dallas was when I had the pigeon strike at 75mph as I flew down I-30 towards downtown in heavy traffic. The little porker flew up from the roadside at about 45 degree angle and went right between the screen and mirror. I had my face shield open about an inch and it hit square in the center of the shield. It felt like I got hit on the face with a softball at 80 mph and hit so hard my eyes crossed for about 30 secs. I have no doubt I'd be dead or messed up for life without the helmet. No helmet or an open face and I'd probably have been knocked unconscious and gone down amidst the semi's and traffic going 80 mph... something I don't want to think about. The shield apparently flexed in and bounced back out without cracking or breaking, because in the impact my nose and upper lip were punched, leaving my lip numb and eyes watering in addition to the crossing and wooziness.
After years of racing motocross, I believe firmly in protective gear, and this just confirms the need for headgear.
Anyway, I headed south on 35 to Waco and cut off on 77 to La Grange, TX to visit my friends Dan and Helen and their wonder dog Sparky. I arrived to a welcome from all 3 plus my friend David in the simmering Texas heat.
I hung out for a day and Helen made the best food... I got fatter. We had a great time and it was fun to see them after the long trip. They have spent many years traveling and have had plenty of adventures themselves with more to come. My friend David, who isn't in the pics, ranks in the same league... unfortunately he won't allow pics of himself since he's on the run from the law at the moment. Just kidding.
You won't find two finer people anywhere in the world.
Sparky is quite a dog - it's sad to realize a dog is smarter than me :0
Double trouble
From La Grange I headed for Houston by way of Brenham to visit my friend Robert and his pretty wife Gay. Robert is a GS'er and general troublemaker, and we've been communicating since I bought my GS but not had a chance to do a ride together.
Robert through Houston
They've got a beautiful house and a GREAT garage filled with Beemer's - Robert's beautiful black 1150 GSA and 94 GSPD plus Gay's 1200ST. SWEEEEEEET!
We decided to ride around Houston the next day... and so did the rain. We ate breakfast at the 11th St Cafe in the Heights, watching the rain pour down on our bikes before heading to Wild West Honda/KTM/BMW in the aftermath of showers.
Riding on 610 and 10 in the water was quite fun (not). I tried to imagine that being stuck behind a semi at 70 with the swirling, muddy, spray coating me was some exotic psychotic, industrial, natural spa experience, but it didn't really help...
It was just a lousy, disgusting muddy experience made worse by the knowledge that Robert was in FRONT of the semi that I was now embedded behind for miles - he had seen it coming and squirted in front of the semi before I could, leaving me to suffer
At the dealership we fondled as much gear and as many bikes as possible, but unfortunately found the KTM 950 Super Enduro. Gawd what a cool bike! Robert declared the bike "The Ultimate Bike for Colorado" and I'd agree. We have figured out how easy it would be to attach some extra fuel on the tail and disappear into the mountains. Man I'm in love.... droooooool
Coming back from the dealership we got caught in a downpour and I got soaked to the nether regions. Our shortcut was under water so we went around, eventually reaching his street which had loose sand washed onto the street from a previous storm. I imagined I was in Africa facing rain, flooding and sand washes. It didn't help. But who says you can't have adventure in Houston!
After tossing my soaked clothing and gear into his dryer for a while I said goodbye and headed out 290 for Austin in the rush hour traffic. Cut south to 71 at Paige and hit Austin about 7 pm. The rain had stayed in front of me and the highways were soaked with water but I never actually got in the rain. It kept the ride cool if not damp, and continued all the way through Johnson City, Fredericksburg and Kerrville.
I hit the I-10 / 16 junction at about 9:15 pm and felt the twinge of sadness that my journey was ending. Filling up at the Shell station next to the freeway, my odometer turning 6845 miles.
I decided to have a celebratory meal before heading home and getting back to reality and Cracker Barrel was nearby. During the meal, a couple came over to talk bikes having seen the GS outside in the dark. They were riding the Hill Country on a Valkyrie and we had a good talk. Wished them well before heading on down 16 in the dark to home.
Late night in Kerrville
The route:
Final thoughts:
A month ago and 6845 miles less on my bike, I left in pouring rain on the first major ride of my life. I remember the excitement mixed with fear and all the "what if's"...
I have returned a different person. The hours alone in beauty and solitude, the people I met and the experiences, both good and bad, made a profound impact within me. The time alone allows you to clean out the garbage that accumulates inside, the yammering and manipulation of TV and advertising, the mindless ways of following the Jones's and keeping up with a driven society.
For those who sit and dream of doing a trip I say one thing... Just do it. Life has a tendency to slip by very quickly. Do it while you can.
Misc notes:
As to gear, for the most part I used all I brought at one point or another - except for the extreme cold weather gear. I had brought it in case of being stranded in a freak storm in the mountains, but ended up riding in a freak heat wave instead.
Some of the items I didn't use were the MSR water filter, spare bike parts and a few other items. I'll still carry parts and the water filter just in case. Oil was good to have, but I'm rethinking my choice of Red Line Synthetic for the engine since it isn't easy to find. I will likely switch to Mobil 1 so that I can find it easily on the road and can afford to carry less. I carried brake fluid and final drive/trans fluid as well.
Clothing: I am sold on the spandex undershorts and polypro wicking t-shirts. They pack small, wash easily and dry fast. The days I wore a standard or long sleeve cotton T, I would be wet with sweat and body odor as opposed to dry and relatively decent smelling in the polypro shirts.
Duffle bag: My $25 Bass Pro bag wasn't waterproof, but I didn't expect it to be and had packed the clothes in ziplocks. It worked well but I may try a MotoFizz bag in the future. I wish I could reduce bulk, but my clothes are large as well as my sleeping bag so I can't do a lot to reduce those but will try for future trips. Need to refine my tank bag and carry a little less in there.
Camera: My Panasonic LX-1 worked well overall, but it isn't fast into action, has terrible shutter lag and is poor in low light. Still, it gave me great wide shots and takes pretty good video. It has trade-offs but will probably continue to use it for the foreseeable future.
Helmet: The Shoei Syncrotec helmet worked great and like the flip up front really well. It was great for beautiful areas with wind in the face experience. I bought it used to wear until I had researched helmets more and it turned out to be a great helmet. At some point I will try the XD but will keep the Shoei for sure. (After the pigeon strike I'll never consider less than a full face)
Sunglasses: I had a cheap pair of Ion brand shooting glasses that worked great for riding - until one earpiece broke off at the temple. I continued to wear them until the other one broke in the same place. Continued wearing them for the rest of the trip as the now 2" long temple pieces worked great for a helmet. The optics were great with these - totally optically clear and distortion free plus they kept all wind out of my eyes. Gotta get a new pair now
Shoes: I wore the Oxtar Infinities most of the time, even off the bike and just love them. At night when walking around town I wore a pair of Columbia ultralite hiking shoes - they're like a training shoe but are mesh and have a shock cord instead of laces. Tthey flattened out well in the bag. I wanted to bring my Crocs and will try them next time.
Jackets: The one decision I questioned was whether bringing TWO jackets was a mistake. I knew I'd want my Belstaff if it got cold and wet in the mountains but also knew I'd die of heat stroke wearing it across Texas and the desert areas of Wyoming and Utah. It stayed in the rear case as a pad for the laptop for the entire trip - until the last part in Colorado. That was where I hit cool/cold weather and rain and the Triumph Raptor with rain liner just didn't cut it. Glad I had both jackets despite the bulk. Switching the armor back and forth was a hassle but allowed them to pack smaller. Thumbs up on both jackets. The Triumph Raptor is a great mesh jacket - built substantially better than my Joe Rocket Phoenix 4. The Belstaff Discovery is superb for cold and wet.
Rain gear: I used a Joe Rocket liner under the Triumph Vented Raptor once in the rain but it just doesn't cut it. From then on I switched to the Belstaff for heavy rain. I used a set of L.L. Bean backpacking over pants that zip open down the leg and are reasonably easy to put over jeans. They worked ok but I never had a severe downpour so I don't know how well they really work. For local jaunts in Texas I'll keep them and my Goretex shell to throw over the Raptor jacket.
Cases: The BMW Vario cases are ok, and the top case is good. They aren't waterproof by any means and the side opening cases are a hassle. Still, they work well enough and came with the bike so I'll continue to use them. Jesse's may be great but I can't swallow $1300 for 2 aluminum boxes - at least at this point
Tent: REI Halfdome. Worked great and was very roomy and light for a two man tent. Two entries. Good for the $169 price. My old North Face Ventilator had finally begun to disintegrate and it has been my all time favorite. Still, the Halfdome is easier, lighter and roomier. Thumbs up.
Electronics: My 12" Mac iBook is a tough little tank. Works perfectly and held up well on the trip. It's durability over the pricier Macbooks is what made me choose one for my business a few years ago - the little guys were designed for students and backpacks and the resulting abuse. Love the iBook. I carried a FireLite 120g firewire drive with it for duplicate drive in case of failure and also to back up photos. I was able to find WiFi in almost each place I stayed, so it is becoming standard throughout much of the US - just have to ask around sometimes. My Palm Treo 650 is a mixed bag. I love the concept and bought it to combine carrying my Palm and a phone. Unfortunately the 650 has crappier reception than my old cell and has lousy bluetooth. Maybe the newer versions are better but I'm gonna research the new Apple iPhone - may be just the ticket...
Camp gear: It all worked fine as usual but I didn't camp as much as I wanted or planned. This was due to "over riding" - I'd ride to long and too late and be too tired or too late to find camping areas. Learning experience.
Camelbak: A must have on the road. At times, I got tired of having it on my back and dealing with straps but I wouldn't go on a long trip without it. With all the pockets on mine, you could probably forego a tankbag and carry essentials in it. Only issue would be for map reading. I'm gonna consider this in the future tho...
The Bike: Having a Hall sensor fail in my driveway the day before leaving, I began to doubt the beast. Wrong. This bike chugged and motored through days of 90mph and severe winds, heat, mountains and desert without a bobble. It just rode like a train on rails and had all the power I ever needed, getting at worst one tank @39mpg and most in the high 40's to mid 50's - even a few in the mid to high 60's! I had the fuel pump replaced at the halfway point for peace of mind since it had begun to whine, but in fairness the tank on this bike has had issues since purchase - the PO had let it sit for over a year and there was corrosion in the tank and the liner was coming loose. This caused issues for the filter and the pump I'm sure. Not the bike's fault.
The 1100 GS is a great highway bike and also did a good job in some severe off road situations with a full gear load and hauling my 255 lb butt on top of it. Had I had the opportunity to leave gear behind I have no doubt I could have done some of the worst passes on the bike. Thumbs up.
While in Dallas, I got to connect with DaveVV who had just returned from Anchorage on his new spanky Ulysses. I gotta admit I like that bike! He was selling his 99 yellow and silver R1100GS and someone is gonna get a great deal. I wish I had the dough but after this trip I'm all out
Dave, you're a neat guy and I enjoyed our visit. We gotta ride the Twisted Sisters when you come down :thumbThe day I was leaving Dallas was when I had the pigeon strike at 75mph as I flew down I-30 towards downtown in heavy traffic. The little porker flew up from the roadside at about 45 degree angle and went right between the screen and mirror. I had my face shield open about an inch and it hit square in the center of the shield. It felt like I got hit on the face with a softball at 80 mph and hit so hard my eyes crossed for about 30 secs. I have no doubt I'd be dead or messed up for life without the helmet. No helmet or an open face and I'd probably have been knocked unconscious and gone down amidst the semi's and traffic going 80 mph... something I don't want to think about. The shield apparently flexed in and bounced back out without cracking or breaking, because in the impact my nose and upper lip were punched, leaving my lip numb and eyes watering in addition to the crossing and wooziness.
After years of racing motocross, I believe firmly in protective gear, and this just confirms the need for headgear.
Anyway, I headed south on 35 to Waco and cut off on 77 to La Grange, TX to visit my friends Dan and Helen and their wonder dog Sparky. I arrived to a welcome from all 3 plus my friend David in the simmering Texas heat.
I hung out for a day and Helen made the best food... I got fatter. We had a great time and it was fun to see them after the long trip. They have spent many years traveling and have had plenty of adventures themselves with more to come. My friend David, who isn't in the pics, ranks in the same league... unfortunately he won't allow pics of himself since he's on the run from the law at the moment.
Just kidding.You won't find two finer people anywhere in the world.
Sparky is quite a dog - it's sad to realize a dog is smarter than me :0
Double trouble
From La Grange I headed for Houston by way of Brenham to visit my friend Robert and his pretty wife Gay. Robert is a GS'er and general troublemaker, and we've been communicating since I bought my GS but not had a chance to do a ride together.
Robert through Houston
They've got a beautiful house and a GREAT garage filled with Beemer's - Robert's beautiful black 1150 GSA and 94 GSPD plus Gay's 1200ST. SWEEEEEEET!
We decided to ride around Houston the next day... and so did the rain. We ate breakfast at the 11th St Cafe in the Heights, watching the rain pour down on our bikes before heading to Wild West Honda/KTM/BMW in the aftermath of showers.
Riding on 610 and 10 in the water was quite fun (not). I tried to imagine that being stuck behind a semi at 70 with the swirling, muddy, spray coating me was some exotic psychotic, industrial, natural spa experience, but it didn't really help...
It was just a lousy, disgusting muddy experience made worse by the knowledge that Robert was in FRONT of the semi that I was now embedded behind for miles - he had seen it coming and squirted in front of the semi before I could, leaving me to suffer
At the dealership we fondled as much gear and as many bikes as possible, but unfortunately found the KTM 950 Super Enduro. Gawd what a cool bike! Robert declared the bike "The Ultimate Bike for Colorado" and I'd agree. We have figured out how easy it would be to attach some extra fuel on the tail and disappear into the mountains. Man I'm in love.... droooooool
Coming back from the dealership we got caught in a downpour and I got soaked to the nether regions. Our shortcut was under water so we went around, eventually reaching his street which had loose sand washed onto the street from a previous storm. I imagined I was in Africa facing rain, flooding and sand washes. It didn't help. But who says you can't have adventure in Houston!
After tossing my soaked clothing and gear into his dryer for a while I said goodbye and headed out 290 for Austin in the rush hour traffic. Cut south to 71 at Paige and hit Austin about 7 pm. The rain had stayed in front of me and the highways were soaked with water but I never actually got in the rain. It kept the ride cool if not damp, and continued all the way through Johnson City, Fredericksburg and Kerrville.
I hit the I-10 / 16 junction at about 9:15 pm and felt the twinge of sadness that my journey was ending. Filling up at the Shell station next to the freeway, my odometer turning 6845 miles.
I decided to have a celebratory meal before heading home and getting back to reality and Cracker Barrel was nearby. During the meal, a couple came over to talk bikes having seen the GS outside in the dark. They were riding the Hill Country on a Valkyrie and we had a good talk. Wished them well before heading on down 16 in the dark to home.
Late night in Kerrville
The route:
Final thoughts:
A month ago and 6845 miles less on my bike, I left in pouring rain on the first major ride of my life. I remember the excitement mixed with fear and all the "what if's"...
I have returned a different person. The hours alone in beauty and solitude, the people I met and the experiences, both good and bad, made a profound impact within me. The time alone allows you to clean out the garbage that accumulates inside, the yammering and manipulation of TV and advertising, the mindless ways of following the Jones's and keeping up with a driven society.
For those who sit and dream of doing a trip I say one thing... Just do it. Life has a tendency to slip by very quickly. Do it while you can.
Misc notes:
As to gear, for the most part I used all I brought at one point or another - except for the extreme cold weather gear. I had brought it in case of being stranded in a freak storm in the mountains, but ended up riding in a freak heat wave instead.
Some of the items I didn't use were the MSR water filter, spare bike parts and a few other items. I'll still carry parts and the water filter just in case. Oil was good to have, but I'm rethinking my choice of Red Line Synthetic for the engine since it isn't easy to find. I will likely switch to Mobil 1 so that I can find it easily on the road and can afford to carry less. I carried brake fluid and final drive/trans fluid as well.
Clothing: I am sold on the spandex undershorts and polypro wicking t-shirts. They pack small, wash easily and dry fast. The days I wore a standard or long sleeve cotton T, I would be wet with sweat and body odor as opposed to dry and relatively decent smelling in the polypro shirts.
Duffle bag: My $25 Bass Pro bag wasn't waterproof, but I didn't expect it to be and had packed the clothes in ziplocks. It worked well but I may try a MotoFizz bag in the future. I wish I could reduce bulk, but my clothes are large as well as my sleeping bag so I can't do a lot to reduce those but will try for future trips. Need to refine my tank bag and carry a little less in there.
Camera: My Panasonic LX-1 worked well overall, but it isn't fast into action, has terrible shutter lag and is poor in low light. Still, it gave me great wide shots and takes pretty good video. It has trade-offs but will probably continue to use it for the foreseeable future.
Helmet: The Shoei Syncrotec helmet worked great and like the flip up front really well. It was great for beautiful areas with wind in the face experience. I bought it used to wear until I had researched helmets more and it turned out to be a great helmet. At some point I will try the XD but will keep the Shoei for sure. (After the pigeon strike I'll never consider less than a full face)
Sunglasses: I had a cheap pair of Ion brand shooting glasses that worked great for riding - until one earpiece broke off at the temple. I continued to wear them until the other one broke in the same place. Continued wearing them for the rest of the trip as the now 2" long temple pieces worked great for a helmet. The optics were great with these - totally optically clear and distortion free plus they kept all wind out of my eyes. Gotta get a new pair now
Shoes: I wore the Oxtar Infinities most of the time, even off the bike and just love them. At night when walking around town I wore a pair of Columbia ultralite hiking shoes - they're like a training shoe but are mesh and have a shock cord instead of laces. Tthey flattened out well in the bag. I wanted to bring my Crocs and will try them next time.
Jackets: The one decision I questioned was whether bringing TWO jackets was a mistake. I knew I'd want my Belstaff if it got cold and wet in the mountains but also knew I'd die of heat stroke wearing it across Texas and the desert areas of Wyoming and Utah. It stayed in the rear case as a pad for the laptop for the entire trip - until the last part in Colorado. That was where I hit cool/cold weather and rain and the Triumph Raptor with rain liner just didn't cut it. Glad I had both jackets despite the bulk. Switching the armor back and forth was a hassle but allowed them to pack smaller. Thumbs up on both jackets. The Triumph Raptor is a great mesh jacket - built substantially better than my Joe Rocket Phoenix 4. The Belstaff Discovery is superb for cold and wet.
Rain gear: I used a Joe Rocket liner under the Triumph Vented Raptor once in the rain but it just doesn't cut it. From then on I switched to the Belstaff for heavy rain. I used a set of L.L. Bean backpacking over pants that zip open down the leg and are reasonably easy to put over jeans. They worked ok but I never had a severe downpour so I don't know how well they really work. For local jaunts in Texas I'll keep them and my Goretex shell to throw over the Raptor jacket.
Cases: The BMW Vario cases are ok, and the top case is good. They aren't waterproof by any means and the side opening cases are a hassle. Still, they work well enough and came with the bike so I'll continue to use them. Jesse's may be great but I can't swallow $1300 for 2 aluminum boxes - at least at this point
Tent: REI Halfdome. Worked great and was very roomy and light for a two man tent. Two entries. Good for the $169 price. My old North Face Ventilator had finally begun to disintegrate and it has been my all time favorite. Still, the Halfdome is easier, lighter and roomier. Thumbs up.
Electronics: My 12" Mac iBook is a tough little tank. Works perfectly and held up well on the trip. It's durability over the pricier Macbooks is what made me choose one for my business a few years ago - the little guys were designed for students and backpacks and the resulting abuse. Love the iBook. I carried a FireLite 120g firewire drive with it for duplicate drive in case of failure and also to back up photos. I was able to find WiFi in almost each place I stayed, so it is becoming standard throughout much of the US - just have to ask around sometimes. My Palm Treo 650 is a mixed bag. I love the concept and bought it to combine carrying my Palm and a phone. Unfortunately the 650 has crappier reception than my old cell and has lousy bluetooth. Maybe the newer versions are better but I'm gonna research the new Apple iPhone - may be just the ticket...
Camp gear: It all worked fine as usual but I didn't camp as much as I wanted or planned. This was due to "over riding" - I'd ride to long and too late and be too tired or too late to find camping areas. Learning experience.
Camelbak: A must have on the road. At times, I got tired of having it on my back and dealing with straps but I wouldn't go on a long trip without it. With all the pockets on mine, you could probably forego a tankbag and carry essentials in it. Only issue would be for map reading. I'm gonna consider this in the future tho...
The Bike: Having a Hall sensor fail in my driveway the day before leaving, I began to doubt the beast. Wrong. This bike chugged and motored through days of 90mph and severe winds, heat, mountains and desert without a bobble. It just rode like a train on rails and had all the power I ever needed, getting at worst one tank @39mpg and most in the high 40's to mid 50's - even a few in the mid to high 60's! I had the fuel pump replaced at the halfway point for peace of mind since it had begun to whine, but in fairness the tank on this bike has had issues since purchase - the PO had let it sit for over a year and there was corrosion in the tank and the liner was coming loose. This caused issues for the filter and the pump I'm sure. Not the bike's fault.
The 1100 GS is a great highway bike and also did a good job in some severe off road situations with a full gear load and hauling my 255 lb butt on top of it. Had I had the opportunity to leave gear behind I have no doubt I could have done some of the worst passes on the bike. Thumbs up.
Last edited: