• Welcome to the Two Wheeled Texans community! Feel free to hang out and lurk as long as you like. However, we would like to encourage you to register so that you can join the community and use the numerous features on the site. After registering, don't forget to post up an introduction!

The 2007 Suzuki Bandit 1250S -The Mega Thread

Forums New posts
Ga-Bandit said:
:zen:

:zen:


:zen:

:giveup:
Click to expand...

Never give up!

I'm no expert, but since you seem to be like me -- wanting the best for your bike, but constrained by costs, I'll tell you what I think.

1. The fork brace is not worth it to me, but I don't ride my Bandit at 9/10ths. I barely ride at 5/10ths. As a result, I don't feel any problems with handling that you may indeed feel. It could be worth it to you. I had a Superbrace fork brace on my '79 GS1000, and it did seem to help a bit. But it didn't cost me $175 dollars, either, which is what Dale's would be with shipping.

2. A great shock is one which has adjustments for your different styles of riding, and which reacts to those adjustments with a measureable difference in feeling to you, the rider. And which doesn't wear out in a year...

3. Here I have no idea.

I appreciate your postings. I was in Alabama (originally got there in the USAF) for 35 years, although now I'm in Wisconsin. I'm in the process of reading the megathread, and I'm about half-way done (page 210).

Keep on ridin'!


RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
The one thing I think I know is that I'm uncertain... but I'm not sure.
 
I have an 09 Bandit 1250. While on a trip recently my tachometer started bouncing up and down and then just stopped working. Does anybody know if this is an electrical issue, or where I need to look to find the fault?
 
The only fork brace I installed was on my Connie, and I used it for two-up and pulling a trailer, also installed new springs. It definitely helped tighten up the front end. I've pushed the Bandit close to 9/10's in Arkansas and the Texas Hill Country. Maybe a brace would help, so far I've stayed upright. As far as shocks I'm looking to replace my OEM. it comes down to Cogent Dynamics and Ohlins. Both are highly rated by owners. About $700 for each. I've read that GSX1000 shock will bolt up for non-ABS models.

Tazman2 said:
Easier perhaps since the heads are right out there but if its more often for valve checks, etc. that I hear the airheads are notorious for then! ;)
Click to expand...

I had a BMW R100RT airhead. I checked the valve clearances every 3K as a habit. They'd go 7500 miles before "absolutely" needing an adjustment. But then the access was simple and the adjustment was a 30 minute job (both heads). I've seen Airhead owners do checks/adjustments at a rally with the OEM tool kit. My Connie (screw/locknut) would go to 9-10K, but access was less easy so a longer job.

I checked my Bandit valves at 17.5K, all were well in spec. I'm now at 30K and planning to check again, curious if they'll be in spec. Access is more complicated, adjustment is more involved, but the bike makes it worth it. All other maintenance is simple, considering the FI, liquid cooling, and no bleed valves on the forks for fluid changes.
 
I pulled the trigger on a Penske 8983 from Traxxion Dynamics. I want it on by the end of the month and it came with free adjustments.
 
If I were smart I would have went with the 8975 which doesn't have ride height adjustment and has a built in resivor (similar to Holeshot aka Dale Walkers Cognent). I even ride with a guy that has a 8975 and he LOVES it. Penske will valve it special just for you so I choose that instead of the Cognent..

I went with the 8983 with remote due to my ABS and my desire to have Computrack play with my suspension geometry to see what we can manipulate with as far as quicker/sharper turn in, etc...

I was told that Penske was a 2-week wait but he warned me I might get it in a week.


On a side note my 40% off Ohlins came in for my sportbike.
 
Ga-Bandit said:
Yep, I agree, no fork brace for me....for now. But, I've done some shock research on my own. Too bad a 06/07 GSXR1000 isn't stated to work anywhere...they're on sale.
Click to expand...


I had a Wee-Strom that I put a fork brace on, and it made a big difference. I haven't felt a need for a fork brace on the Bandit, as the front forks seem pretty solid as they are.



Penske 8983: $735
Hyperpro 3D: should be around $800-950
Ohlins: and the 715 ...and the 46DRS $779: differs
Holeshot / Cogent Dynamics: $675

Please keep us posted on how the shock replacement goes! It's a big chunk of change for a bike that doesn't hold value very well, but if you're going to keep it, you might as well make it ride better.
 
I did the front forks, 5 wt oil, springs, valves etc. The fork brace made the biggest impact for me. It made the front end more stable in the corners.
 
How many cc's each fork? Last time I did mine I think I overfilled . Measured it and think I got it off.
 
Shotrod said:
How many cc's each fork? Last time I did mine I think I overfilled . Measured it and think I got it off.
Click to expand...

from my 2007 manual
: Oil 99000–99001–SS8 (SUZUKI FORK OIL
SS-08 or equivalent)
Capacity (each leg)
GSF1250/A: 472 ml (16.0/16.6 US/lmp oz)
GSF1250S/SA: 471 ml (15.9/16.0 US/lmp oz)
 
I really don't too much worry about how much I dump in there on a fluid change. I pump every thing really good and then make sure I have about a 5.6 or so level left in there before buttoning all up. I think it's 5.7 inches on the ABS models.
Finally , after 70,000 miles, I see traces of the right fork seal developing a leak. I stand amazed with the roads I run and the beating the forks take. I have a set in stock so will take care of that one day before it gets too bad. ;-)
 
wanabeguru said:
from my 2007 manual
: Oil 99000–99001–SS8 (SUZUKI FORK OIL
SS-08 or equivalent)
Capacity (each leg)
GSF1250/A: 472 ml (16.0/16.6 US/lmp oz)
GSF1250S/SA: 471 ml (15.9/16.0 US/lmp oz)
Click to expand...

Thanks guys, I put a seal in it once before, but not the bushing even though I was advised to. Guess I'll listen next time......:doh:
 
Went for a ride today, just out wandering the back roads. Had been riding for about an hour 1/2 and the last bar started flashing on fuel gauge. I was kind of out in the middle of nowhere so I decided to head back towards civilization to find a gas station. First decent looking station I came across was a Shell. I pull up and to my surprise, they had Ethanol-free gasoline. I filled up the bandit and I have now noticed that it isn't so "buzzy" with the E-free gas and it seems to have better acceleration . Glad I found this place, I'll be going back as needed.
 
Time to do an engine coolant change on my Bandit. I have the shop manual. Any tips from any of you that have done a coolant change that are not covered in the shop manual?

One specific question. Do you need to drain the gas tank when removing the tank? Since their is not gas petcock, when you remove gas line, are you loosing fuel out of the tank?

Also, on other bikes, I would noramlly idle the engine with the rad cap off to remove air out of the system. How do you do this with the tank off? Can you connect the tank and still have access to the radiator cap?
 
No need to drain tank, just a little bit of gas will come out of the line when you un-hook it.

There is room to have the tank lines hooked up and get the rad cap off and on.

I just let mine warm up and cool down two or three times adding coolant to the overflow tank as needed as the air is bleeds out of the system.
 
Tazman2 said:
Wait till you see your MPG! Anyways heres a good website none in my state but... :doh:

http://pure-gas.org/

EDIT: NM I lied theirs now ONE in my whole state.....
Click to expand...
I am getting 55mpg on CA imitation gas,one day it got nearly 59mpg cruising some tight backroads........I wonder what it would do on real gas? This mileage is from riding it easy short shifting.
 
My best ever was in the 56 mile range in the higher elevations of Montana and running about 45 to 50 on the Bandit. I've never got that good on the KLR . LOL! But, down here with the humidity at sea level, mid 40's is the best with the KLR in the low 50's . Wish that dang KLR was Injected also.
 
Just finished the thread. Interesting stories through the years, from a different perspective than those who participated.

My coolant level is full, pulling the radiator cap and looking. Still, I don't see any color in the plastic tube along the right side frame rail where we are supposed to check. I have started, warmed up and stopped, and I have rocked the Bandit from front to back and from side to side. Still no extra room under the radiator cap for more coolant, and still nothing visible in the plastic check tube. I have used a strong light to examine that tube, thinking that perhaps the coolant was there, but not as visible as it should be. No go.

I just came back from a 2000 mile trip http://www.twtex.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1189263&postcount=610 and have put only a little over 3000 miles altogether on my Bandit (it had 12000 miles when I bought it); I have heard the fan come on only once, so I'm not concerned about overheating. It just seems strange to me.

Anyone got any suggestions on what I may be doing/looking at wrong?


RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
"The most dangerous phrase in the language is, 'We've always done it this way.'" -- Grace Hopper
 
Kelsen said:
Just finished the thread. Interesting stories through the years, from a different perspective than those who participated.

My coolant level is full, pulling the radiator cap and looking. Still, I don't see any color in the plastic tube along the right side frame rail where we are supposed to check. I have started, warmed up and stopped, and I have rocked the Bandit from front to back and from side to side. Still no extra room under the radiator cap for more coolant, and still nothing visible in the plastic check tube. I have used a strong light to examine that tube, thinking that perhaps the coolant was there, but not as visible as it should be. No go.

I just came back from a 2000 mile trip http://www.twtex.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1189263&postcount=610 and have put only a little over 3000 miles altogether on my Bandit (it had 12000 miles when I bought it); I have heard the fan come on only once, so I'm not concerned about overheating. It just seems strange to me.

Anyone got any suggestions on what I may be doing/looking at wrong?


RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
"The most dangerous phrase in the language is, 'We've always done it this way.'" -- Grace Hopper
Click to expand...

YES! You don't check level/fill via radiator cap! Its all done via overflow tank
 
Thanks, Wannabe. I thought you added it via the radiator cap, but you are right. I appreciate it!


RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
When you wish upon a falling star, your dreams come true. Unless it's really a meteorite hurtling to the Earth which will destroy all life. Then you're pretty much hosed no matter what you wish for. Unless it's death by meteor.
 
Just pulled the trigger on the Renntec bars; $215 shipped.

On my recent trip from Wisconsin to Alabama and back, there were three occasions I recall wherein if I had not been quite big (6'2", 255 lbs) and fairly agile, I would have fallen over with my Bandit. One of them was setting my foot down in gravel after coming to a stop. The other two were simply my own miscalculations.

I think engine guards are pretty much required, and I like the size of the Renntec bars, although I tend to prefer buying from Dale Walker and Scott Brown, true afficianados of our well-loved Bandit.

I am becoming unsatisfied with the feel of my bike's front end, and I am giving more consideration to the Race Tech Gold Valve & Cogent fork spring kit. It's a difficult call for me, as I have been unemployed for 18 months, but I simply have to be able to enjoy my motorcycle...


RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
I had a psychic girlfriend but she left me before we met.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top