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The DR/DRZ Thread
- Thread starter Marc B
- Start date
sandman
0
You did not want to use this kit
www.motosport.com
Pivot Works Shock Repair Kit
The only complete shock rebuild kit on the market. Restores plush action to one shock absorber. Includes bladder, new complete piston seal head, piston ring, piston O-ring, bumper, and new shaft nut. Includes Chevron Starplex® EP lubricating grease to ease installation. Backed by a lifetime...
don't judge me! it's whats on the bench at the moment, not what's under it!
Internet being what it is, I was unable find a drz400e kit, even on the pivotworks/ all balls website. I realized after I received the individual parts how many bikes the parts fit, and that I could have probably searched harder or dropped the E and found a better selection. It did not use to be that way.
Internet being what it is, I was unable find a drz400e kit, even on the pivotworks/ all balls website. I realized after I received the individual parts how many bikes the parts fit, and that I could have probably searched harder or dropped the E and found a better selection. It did not use to be that way.
whew! after many hours, I finally beat the
unholy swingarm bolt out of this bike without breaking it or harming the rest of the bike, then after seeing the condition of the 20+ year old seals and some of the bearings set out on removing the rest of the suspension bearings.
What a job! The deeper I go, the farther away from riding this thing I seem to be getting.
If you've never done this, don't! I had read about the difficulty of the swingarm and figured how hard could it be...
Note, standard duty all thread is not really made for pulling swingarms. I'm no quitter.
unholy swingarm bolt out of this bike without breaking it or harming the rest of the bike, then after seeing the condition of the 20+ year old seals and some of the bearings set out on removing the rest of the suspension bearings.
What a job! The deeper I go, the farther away from riding this thing I seem to be getting.
If you've never done this, don't! I had read about the difficulty of the swingarm and figured how hard could it be...
Note, standard duty all thread is not really made for pulling swingarms. I'm no quitter.
Rear suspension is reassembled, it's amazing how easily the swingarm bolt slid back in after the difficulty of removal.
The tusk swingarm bearing tool sure made reassembly a breeze after using sockets and all thread to remove them.
Today beginning fork and steering bearing rebuild -I got one fork disassembled yesterday after building a cartridge holding tool, then knocked the lower stem bearing and races out and cleaned and prepped for parts arrival.
Next stop front caliper and wheel bearings, which are a breeze as I've done those before.
I enjoy doing this work and learning, but in retrospect, I'm guessing it would have been about the same cost to just buy a newer bike at current inflated prices. I don't want to add up all the parts and cost. Nevermind the labor hours. I've never bought a new bike, so I am interested to see how this "new" one compares when I'm done.
The tusk swingarm bearing tool sure made reassembly a breeze after using sockets and all thread to remove them.
Today beginning fork and steering bearing rebuild -I got one fork disassembled yesterday after building a cartridge holding tool, then knocked the lower stem bearing and races out and cleaned and prepped for parts arrival.
Next stop front caliper and wheel bearings, which are a breeze as I've done those before.
I enjoy doing this work and learning, but in retrospect, I'm guessing it would have been about the same cost to just buy a newer bike at current inflated prices. I don't want to add up all the parts and cost. Nevermind the labor hours. I've never bought a new bike, so I am interested to see how this "new" one compares when I'm done.
OldTLSDoug
Forum Supporter
The work means that you know the bike is assembled correctly and the stuff you did won't or shouldn't fail. I love to ride the scooters I have spent a lot of time on. The more heartache in the restoration, the more joy in the ride. My Suzuki TL1000R journey got me over the fear of fuel injected bikes and transmission rebuilds. The DR-Z era reminded me that I can and do fix pretty much anything. The V-Stroms got me to dabble in paint, which initially was good, but ultimately, the clearcoat failed. The KTM 990 Super Duke has been an ongoing love affair with a bike that we have abused mercilessly, but has rewarded me with years of fun. The 950 SMR was a great redo, carbs, valve clearances, lots of good stuff, Rottweiler mods, woo hoo! Not to mention the KTM supermotos and RC-8Rs I have owned over the years. No work goes unrewarded, I find that even when I fail, I learned and had something positive come from it. Except GixxerJasen's KTM, I got rid of it before I went crazy on it.
That's because sometimes we need to learn lessons, like to respect the quiet but super powerful machines, like hydraulic presses. At least you did it on a cheap bike and not something like the Evo.
Above images are of the front brake on a 2000 DRZ 400E that had been made street legal before I purchased it. I am in the process of "bringing it back from the dead" and would like to add a brake light switch to the front brake.
Is there a switch that I can add to this setup or will I have to replace this with a setup from a S model?
Thanks for any suggestions.
You can possibly add a pressure switch. I picked up a used S model brake master cylinder and swapped with my E model to get a good brake switch and make it street legal. I'd recommend going this route, there are plenty of these pretty cheap on ebay, just make sure it has the switch mounted to it.
You will have some difficulty with wiring however as the E model doesn't have the connections for the lights or switches. After a lot of work, I ended up buying a nearly new S model wiring harness and rewiring the entire bike.
You will have some difficulty with wiring however as the E model doesn't have the connections for the lights or switches. After a lot of work, I ended up buying a nearly new S model wiring harness and rewiring the entire bike.
Thanks, that sounds like simple solution.
And this bike was wired for lights before so wiring should be straight forward, there is already a wire to the brake light from the foot brake.
I could not find the old low profile banjo fitting pressure switches of old - none of reliable manufacture anyway. I neglected to make the front brake activate the brake light. I used a banjo bolt press switch on the rear and it took modification to the bracket and guard, no way those will work up front.
Tusk sells a cheap bar switch and wiring harness that worked ok, not the best quality but I remade all the connections and dropped it in loom.
Tusk sells a cheap bar switch and wiring harness that worked ok, not the best quality but I remade all the connections and dropped it in loom.
OldTLSDoug
Forum Supporter
You could mount the pressure switch on the Caliper and all will be good, lots of room and you can run the wires up the brake line. Just saying, everything is possible with motorcycles. I had a pressure switch on my old Suzuki TL1000R front and it worked well, I had one on another bike or two, but cannot find a picture. Also, just using the DR-ZSM or S brake master cylinder is the easiest way out.
Thanks for the suggestions. Now that I have looked, there are many options available on Ebay. I just have to be sure that I get a front brake system that has a switch on it.
Yep, that's the way to go. Rear brake can't accept the switch easily because there's no place to mount the switch on the frame. I just run the front switch knowing that as a long time street rider I always pull the front lever at least a little bit anyway.
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- Spears
All brake master cylinders are not created equal. A smaller piston will require more travel and have more feedback. A larger piston will use less travel and have a harder feel. Be careful of what you buy.
Found a used DRZ400S front master cylinder on Ebay and ordered it. Will let y'all know how it works.
OMG. I just watched a video on new fork seals for my DRZ400e. It's complicated with lots of room to screw up. My experience is with simple forks like the sl350 and ct90s. Does E Marquez still work on these bikes? RockyMountain ATV has a "kit" but I would rather do OEM if I'm going to all that trouble. It's a 2001 and has never been changed according to the two previous owners.
Did you go OEM for seals?