The DR/DRZ Thread

[Hellwig]

you FCR carb owners will not want to hear this buttttt as much as I love them…. The FCR’s must be almost perfect to run well. option 2 ….go back with a used Stock S model carb off eBay or buy that FCR Clone … keep us update. Fuel Injection is over rated

while removal and install is really the biggest issue for me, once dialed in and if run regularly these carbs work great. I do not know how much difference it really makes over the S/ cv carb, but there are times when I consider that, for ease of service. The fcr does have a lot of parts, some of which you can get rid of.

Aah the mythical fuel injected, 6 speed drz-
heck while you're at it, put her on a weight loss plan. We can dream.

 

[Hellwig]

more research and I found the mid body kit available from all balls. Ordered on Amazon. More to come as soon as I can get it slapped in and tested. Crossing fingers and sacrificing politicians in anticipation

 

[humanrace]

I've talked to the sales reps at shows and demo rides about that several times. Last time was way over ayear ago.They always kinda said the idea had been had, but I don't see one. I'd like it to shed some weight too. A guy can dream....

I don't think I've ever seen anything on a retrofit FI for these. I may look around a bit.

It's not a kit. Several on Thumpertalk have done their own. If it were bolt on, I would probably pay the price.
My ideal DRZ would have 6 speeds properly spaced for highway and dirt riding, weigh less without compromising luggage carrying capacity, more fuel capacity, fuel injection and a little more power without losing its excellent low end torque.
I would like Suzuki to address known issues also. Those three yellow wires and their connectors coming out of the stator need to be increased in size. Suzukis have been burning those wires and melting those connectors for more than 40 years. the locktite fixes for the stator and starter should be done at the factory. While we're at it, let's get Kawasaki to fix that doohicky that's been a problem on their KLR-650 since its inception.

 

[Simmons1]

It's not a kit. Several on Thumpertalk have done their own. If it were bolt on, I would probably pay the price.
My ideal DRZ would have 6 speeds properly spaced for highway and dirt riding, weigh less without compromising luggage carrying capacity, more fuel capacity, fuel injection and a little more power without losing its excellent low end torque.
I would like Suzuki to address known issues also. Those three yellow wires and their connectors coming out of the stator need to be increased in size. Suzukis have been burning those wires and melting those connectors for more than 40 years. the locktite fixes for the stator and starter should be done at the factory. While we're at it, let's get Kawasaki to fix that doohicky that's been a problem on their KLR-650 since its inception.

Probably none of that will ever happen. You will have to be content with replacing your DRZ's every 40K miles.

 

[BornAgain]

When pigs fly

 

[gixxerjasen]

Sooner or later folks will stop buying new DRZ's and will buy enough CRF's and EXC's that Suzuki will be forced to update the design. Until then, it's all money in the bank from R&D spent decades ago.

 

[Simmons1]

Sooner or later folks will stop buying new DRZ's and will buy enough CRF's and EXC's that Suzuki will be forced to update the design. Until then, it's all money in the bank from R&D spent decades ago.

I am guessing later. With zero R&D left to amortize they probably do pretty well on every one they sell.

As long as they are enough cheaper compared to the modern bikes they will still sell some every year.

 

[OldTLSDoug]

I gotta say, the FCR-MX set up for your mods is the best carb for the DR-Z, I had both of mine jetted spot on and they worked well from 40°F to 110°F with nary an adjustment. The carb I put on my first one was jetted basically as the old Thumpertalk store sold them. The one on my 2006 took a minor amount of fiddling to get the pilot right, the main was easy, I had cams, big valves, head work and a big bore kit with the MRD/SSW exhaust. DR-Z's run great, they are what they are, and if you want a sweet street Super Moto, go get a KTM/GasGas/Husqvarna and enjoy the 80 hp motor and awesome handling. YMMV.

 

[Hellwig]

 

[Hellwig]

complete carb

bowl removed

mid body removal

mid body where the kit goes (already removed o rings)

upper part of carb where mid body bolts on (o rings not removed.

She's going in the ultrasonic and then reassembly tomorrow. Report back later

 

[gixxerjasen]

You removed the carb? Did you use 16 or 22 cuss words? Were they the good cuss words? You'll need the good ones and twice as many to put it back in.

 

[Hellwig]

it's a booger but I think I figured out the trick of getting it in and out of there. I remove the regulator bolts and whatever that big plastic chamber thing is on the crank vent line on the other side (just the bolt) for more clearance.
The real issue is reattaching the airbox correctly, That takes patience and finesse and and double checking and a politicians nick name or two. I've tried other tricks like unbolting the subframe but found it more time consuming and more work.

 

[Hellwig]

After a very thorough bath and cleaning, the kit is in, I installed a 155 main, kept the pilot at 45 and needle at 5th position, shaved off the bottom button of the pumper diaphram, and ran the air/ fuel screw out 1-1/2 and the idle screw about halfway in. Fired right up, with no choke and purrs like a tiger. Revs great with no stumble throughout the range of throttle and until it hits the limiter. I do have a slight dribble coming from the overflow hose that will not stop, so will have to address that, gonna check the float height and maybe change the valve seat if I have one.

I put about 12 miles on it from putting around to wot and am very happy. This completely changed this bike and removed it from the chopping block.

BOTTOM LINE: if you have a keihin fcr carb, and you cannot cure weird idle issues with cleaning and jetting, and it has a little age on it, this kit might be for you. Careful with the little screws accessible from the inside top of the bowl, I had to be creative removing those. A little grease to hold the new rings in after cleaning and kit even came with new screws.

This bike now runs as good as my old drz ever did, and I am thankful after so much trouble prior to this kit.

 

[OldTLSDoug]

Glad to hear it, carb jetting isn't voodoo, but it is a bit fiddly, but, as you say, when you get it right, she is worth the trouble. Great work, sir.

 

[gixxerjasen]

Glad to hear it, carb jetting isn't voodoo, but it is a bit fiddly, but, as you say, when you get it right, she is worth the trouble. Great work, sir.

It's totally 100% voodoo, but just like spells and voodoo, there's instruction manuals/cookbooks and you can follow them and get it right, even if you didn't understand what you did.

 

[Mr. Clortho]

Bagged a virgin...'24 DR650 with 1.8 miles on her. I quickly removed her virginity that afternoon and put her on a weight loss program. I have heard one should not enter a relationship expecting to change the other, but...basically trying to create a 70% trail, 30% road DS bike.

On order: Skid plate, Seat Concepts Low (I might be considered vertically challenged by some), 14T sprocket and chain guard, DG V2 slip-on

Weight loss program: Removed reflectors and brackets, tool pouch (other plans there), passenger pegs, bar end weights (or tried), should save around 9lbs on the exhaust, eventually a LI battery (avoiding talking about my own spare tire...)

Plans: Acerbis 5.3 gal naked tank, 70/30 tires (still researching), maybe lowered pegs, eventually a pumper carb/air box mod down the road, tail clean up, Pro Taper CR High Bend. I don't have any suspension or electrical mods planed or a windshield, at least for now, but time will tell.

I have no plans of blasting the trails like in my youth, just to get back there, thump around, see the sites, take rides with my wife (she rides a Ryker), enjoy life, etc

 

[Hellwig]

Nice DR, clortho!
In the interest of keeping this thread alive,
here is my recently completed DR-Ze's transformation to street legality.
All I have left is the gauntlet at the tax office.
Years ago, when I outfitted my old E, I used HighwayDirtBikes handguards, bar risers and top clamp, with a contour CR high bend bar and that setup is bomb proof, but this bike came fitted with Renthal bars, more like the stock bend, without riser and I decided I would try that out for awhile- maybe make it a little more off road friendly.

Additions
I went with maier clamp on barkbusters with hdb plastic guards, vapor speedo, older HDB signals front and back.
Ricochet rear rack (I think), a new edge tail light, vector pressure switch on rear brakes, cfc caseguards, and an old aluminum skid plate I bought from someone here on twt years ago.
Oh and unibiker rad guards. - Most of this was transplant from the old z. I used a new tusk wiring harness (to lessen the hassle of building a new one), fed from the battery, but switched with a relay by the OEM rear tail light circuit, and a tusk bar switch. Installed a 2A fuse at the vapor, and a 10A fuse at the battery on the tusk harness.
All in all, it looks like a 20 year old dirt bike converted to a ds, and that's ok by me. The main thing is she runs great so far. I plan to pick up new shroud graphics, as these are peeling off; if I can find any I can stomach the look of, and don't cost an arm and a leg. There are some really ugly graphics out there, lol.

I have been toying with the idea of getting the off-road title here in Texas (already got the bond $69) and then possibly sending that off to South Dakota or Montana, for the plate. If anyone has experience with that, please let me know.

 

[jruba]

Nice DR, clortho!
In the interest of keeping this thread alive,
here is my recently completed DR-Ze's transformation to street legality.
All I have left is the gauntlet at the tax office.
Years ago, when I outfitted my old E, I used HighwayDirtBikes handguards, bar risers and top clamp, with a contour CR high bend bar and that setup is bomb proof, but this bike came fitted with Renthal bars, more like the stock bend, without riser and I decided I would try that out for awhile- maybe make it a little more off road friendly.

Additions
I went with maier clamp on barkbusters with hdb plastic guards, vapor speedo, older HDB signals front and back.
Ricochet rear rack (I think), a new edge tail light, vector pressure switch on rear brakes, cfc caseguards, and an old aluminum skid plate I bought from someone here on twt years ago.
Oh and unibiker rad guards. - Most of this was transplant from the old z. I used a new tusk wiring harness (to lessen the hassle of building a new one), fed from the battery, but switched with a relay by the OEM rear tail light circuit, and a tusk bar switch. Installed a 2A fuse at the vapor, and a 10A fuse at the battery on the tusk harness.
All in all, it looks like a 20 year old dirt bike converted to a ds, and that's ok by me. The main thing is she runs great so far. I plan to pick up new shroud graphics, as these are peeling off; if I can find any I can stomach the look of, and don't cost an arm and a leg. There are some really ugly graphics out there, lol.

I have been toying with the idea of getting the off-road title here in Texas (already got the bond $69) and then possibly sending that off to South Dakota or Montana, for the plate. If anyone has experience with that, please let me know.

check out this thread:

Know the rules when converting dirt bikes to street in Tx.

What is the latest update on this? Anyone in the Collin county who converted, can you walk me thru the process? I have a clear title and all equipment mounted up and ready to go. if you can go to the new vehicle registration office in McKinney (opened withing the last 4 years or so), they have...

www.twtex.com

 

[Hellwig]

Yea, I finally worked up the courage and got it done. Tax office didn't give me any trouble about any of it, however, since the bill of sale I had was dated 2019, they hit me with $250 fee for not transferring the title back then. For some reason, I was under the misguided impression from reading all over the web, that ohv's were not subject to that tax. As an aside, the information in that thread is pretty spot on, but the law/ code etc referenced is not. I could never find it exactly as sited. No biggy.

I hesitated at the tax office, when they told me as I had been considering attempting to get a Montana or north Dakota plate instead to avoid some expense, but after careful research, found that to not be an option, since I didn't have a title. I also checked at the tax office about just getting the off road title first to avoid the penalty, but they told me it did not matter. So, I begrudgingly paid the tax.

Lesson here is, transfer the title immediately, or as soon as you can. All in, the tax office cut was about $370 for the plate. They valued the bike at $420 or so. I got a bond for $69, dmv cost $15, and the $7 inspection. The bike is a 2022. It is done and so am I!!

 

[Hellwig]

I am contemplating playing with gearing and I seem to recall some rule about keeping gearing an odd number?
I have stock E gearing at 14/47 and want to increase topend speed some, and was thinking man it would be nice to be able to swap the primary back and forth for woods.
I know the s stock is 15/44
would 14/44 be a bad idea?

 

[humanrace]

I swap quite often on my SM. I swap between 16 for highway and 13 for jeep roads. My rear is stock, I believe 41t.

 

[JT]

This tool sure makes it easier to deal with the 79.5 ft/lb nut.

RMATV

 

[Multisurface Rider]

Thanks JT, I just ordered one.

 

[BornAgain]

You're gonna love that sprocket stuff tool it's like giving yourself a third hand.

 

[Hellwig]

walked past the z and noticed a decent puddle underneath and after a little investigation realized the rear shock had let go. I researched and ordered parts, tools and fluid and tore it down and cleaned it up. A few days later after parts arrived and watching a few dozen videos, rebuilt it and took it to a local shop for recharge, seems to be holding fine. I put the spring back in and as soon as I remove, clean and repack the swing arm, linkage and swingarm bearings, I'll put the shock back in.
This was my first attempt at this rebuild and it wasn't a hard job. I replaced the seal head as a unit as well as the bladder and added a new bumper as the old one was long gone. The parts were about $100, tools and fluid about $80. Nitro fill was gratis.

Funny thing is, I could not find a kit for this shock, and ended up having to order from 3 different places to get it all. Rocky had all but the bumper and bladder. It seems like this is the norm for this old drz. I guess I should b happy I could still get them.