Weight reduction?
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What's going on out at GrandPaul's Place?
- Thread starter grandpaul
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Not much.
You might also want to relocate the footpegs so you can more easily stand on the pegs. Something that came up when I did my street-bike-to-ADV conversion on the GS500 was not only the footpeg position, but once you do that, the distance from the nose of the seat to the handlebars becomes very long. Taller handlebars actually make this worse. It's because it rotates your shoulders back so the reach to the handlebar becomes much more. I have long arms and legs for my height so usually I have to do mods to increase the reach, but on my GS I actually had to put some of those offset risers to push the handlebars back about 1.5" and it is still a stretch to ride. And I'm a couple of inches taller than you are anyway.
I own two motorcycles with essentially the same frame but different geometry for street vs. ADV riding, so I can also do a straight A/B comparison. The Scrambler is definitely more of a stretch than the Bonneville. The more upright position makes a meaningful difference, which I think you might notice more than I do.
Maybe you can solve it with the handlebar change, switching to bars with noticeably more "pull back". But I think this may screw up your hand position too much, and offset risers or a Rox-type riser might be in order.
IMHO you also will want to find a way to raise the front end the same amount you raise the rear, if not a little more. You will want to increase the rake, and raising only the rear will reduce rake. Presumably you're not going to try to switch to a 19" front wheel, which would raise the front end an inch and compensate for longer shocks, but require a lot more serious surgery. You might have the ability to drop the forks in the triples a little bit like I did on my GS500, but I bet you will wind up swapping the springs and cranking up the preload to get the ride height right.
One other thing I did on my GS which I think make a huge difference was dropping the front sprocket by 2 teeth. I pretty much tried to copy Yamaha's MT-07 to Tenere 700 conversion, and even with a 70hp 270-degree twin they still dropped the front sprocket. It makes a big difference in modulation at walking pace.
I'm very interested in this conversion
I'm a bit of a bike-geometry geek, and I've been down this road myself, with lots of trial and error. Getting my GS500 in shape to work on a trip with 150 miles of paved backroads and 4 miles of poorly graded gravel without making me feel like it was going to take a quick nap or introduce aches on the longer road stretches was a bit of a project.
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Great stuff, all noted. Nothing will be an extreme change, just a bit here and a bit there. I don't want to lose the Zeeky feel.
That's cool. I have some Acerbis fenders you can have to tinker with to fab your front mudguard. You'll definitely need to do that if you take my bigger-tire suggestion below.
Shinko makes an E705 in 120/90-17 that's 3" bigger in diameter than the 120/70, that'll give you 1.5" front ride height with zero other changes. You can probably get an inch out of the rear with preload alone, putting the whole bike 1.25" taller and also giving a touch more rake.
Shinko makes an E705 in 120/90-17 that's 3" bigger in diameter than the 120/70, that'll give you 1.5" front ride height with zero other changes. You can probably get an inch out of the rear with preload alone, putting the whole bike 1.25" taller and also giving a touch more rake.
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If I were a fabricator, I'd build a different exhaust system with all 4 pipes going back behind the oil filter to a collector there. That would easily give me an inch or more clearance.
Swingarm would still be in the way. Better to just not ride over big stuff
If you really wanted to fab exhaust, then you could just make twin 2-1s that run along the lower edge of the frame on either side with the collectors essentially under your toe like the 2-1 exhausts on both of my Triumphs. Side benefit is you'd have half as much stuff to repair if you did bash the exhaust. Maybe someone makes an aftermarket 4-2 twin system you could use as a starting point.
You want I should loan you my bigger hammer?
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That would result in "TOONED" exhaust.
It's got PEEN!!
ring-a-ding-ding-ding-ding-ding
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Here are my quick-and-easy alloy shock blocks that'll give me 1-3/4" lift, leaving the swingarm out of harm's way (bash plate still needed).
Next, the yoke mods to raise the front an equal amount...
Next, the yoke mods to raise the front an equal amount...
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It's OK, I'm going to use the old chain off my Green bike, it's nicely stretched! hee hee
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Here's my (relatively) easy/cheap solution to raising the front of the bike.
Cut per the pattern, then weld this bit to the original top yoke.
I just need to find somebody to "do me a solid" and weld on some aluminum...
This way, I simply slide the forks down an inch and clamp them with the new welded on bits.
Cut per the pattern, then weld this bit to the original top yoke.
I just need to find somebody to "do me a solid" and weld on some aluminum...
This way, I simply slide the forks down an inch and clamp them with the new welded on bits.
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Scratch the previous top yoke mod plan. I received the first of two top yokes to build the ADV version, and after a close examination, only the slider clamp rings and rear pip up to the steering neck can be retained on the lower extensions. Everything else would conflict, and must be removed. Here is the new plan, just waiting on the 2nd yoke to start cutting on the rougher of the two.
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This was fun: The top yoke came to my postal box cluster. The postman opens the cluster door, inserts the mail and leaves. He has no way of knowing that the *&^%$#@ thing WON'T FIT THRU THE INDIVIDUAL DOOR on the way out!
I thought MAYBE removing the wrapping would give me the needed bit of clearance.... NO.
Then I thought that removing the handlebar clamp and hardware would do it....... ALMOST, but NO.
After removing the fork pinch bolts and trying every possible angle, I finally managed to yank it out, scratching up the paint on the mailbox. Too bad...
Free at last!
I thought MAYBE removing the wrapping would give me the needed bit of clearance.... NO.
Then I thought that removing the handlebar clamp and hardware would do it....... ALMOST, but NO.
After removing the fork pinch bolts and trying every possible angle, I finally managed to yank it out, scratching up the paint on the mailbox. Too bad...
Free at last!
You gonna try and get a structural weld of two cast aluminum parts? I don't think I'd go this way if I were you. Why not just try to swap on a 19" front wheel and get your front end higher that way?
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Structural welding isn't that hard for a good welder.
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I received the paperwork and the key day-before-yesterday, so went straight to the ranch, pulled the bike out, and took it for a spin.
A bit rough, spitting and popping (found two of the sources), front brake pumps up for decent use, then you've got to pump the lever again. Fork seals need replacing. Anyway, easy enough to hit 80, but I went straight back to the barndo (no plate on the bike).
I decided to see what my spare EMGO Quarter fairing would look like, turns out it seems to be the exact matching paint that the front fender is painted with, very near match to the dark gray on the tank & seat! Windscreen was too short, so I cut slots in each side of the shoulder of the fairing inside the windscreen pocket, slipped in an unknown tall / lipped clear screen, and (for now) drilled and bolted it in the center of the short screen (which is already cracked with a chunk missing, covered with stickers).
First step in the project mocked up...
Yes, it's a bodge. Yes, it's ugly. I know. But, it will work! These inexpensive quarter fairings give GREAT winter/wet/hand protection. I need to scrounge up proper hardware for the windscreen with larger rubber isolator washers. I'll look to see if EMGO makes a taller replacement screen, it'll be affordable.
A bit rough, spitting and popping (found two of the sources), front brake pumps up for decent use, then you've got to pump the lever again. Fork seals need replacing. Anyway, easy enough to hit 80, but I went straight back to the barndo (no plate on the bike).
I decided to see what my spare EMGO Quarter fairing would look like, turns out it seems to be the exact matching paint that the front fender is painted with, very near match to the dark gray on the tank & seat! Windscreen was too short, so I cut slots in each side of the shoulder of the fairing inside the windscreen pocket, slipped in an unknown tall / lipped clear screen, and (for now) drilled and bolted it in the center of the short screen (which is already cracked with a chunk missing, covered with stickers).
First step in the project mocked up...
Yes, it's a bodge. Yes, it's ugly. I know. But, it will work! These inexpensive quarter fairings give GREAT winter/wet/hand protection. I need to scrounge up proper hardware for the windscreen with larger rubber isolator washers. I'll look to see if EMGO makes a taller replacement screen, it'll be affordable.
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Project #2 for the day was to cut down the 2nd spare top yoke. I couldn't get my angle grinder to stay running, it's not the brushes so I'm going to have to dig further in to get to the switch. Whipped out the recipro-saw and used up all my metal cutting blades and JUST got 'er done...
I know, they're uneven. I left too much on the bottom one, then cut a bit too much off! Doesn't matter, the only important parts are the clamping circles.
Waiting on a local welder to call me back this morning, already sent him a photo...
I know, they're uneven. I left too much on the bottom one, then cut a bit too much off! Doesn't matter, the only important parts are the clamping circles.
Waiting on a local welder to call me back this morning, already sent him a photo...
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OK, so back to the issues with popping, I located one issue immediately... no plug on the vacuum tap!
Second issue wasn't far behind... choke plunger cap adrift-
DEFINITELY runs better now! Got it up to 80 with ease, turned around and came back (no plate on the bike!)
Second issue wasn't far behind... choke plunger cap adrift-
DEFINITELY runs better now! Got it up to 80 with ease, turned around and came back (no plate on the bike!)
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Here's the big issue: ground clearance at the oil sump:
I can cut the pan down 2" without a big fuss, but then the problem is the exhaust-
Lookin' for a good used set of 4-into-2 pipes, CHEAP!
I can cut the pan down 2" without a big fuss, but then the problem is the exhaust-
Lookin' for a good used set of 4-into-2 pipes, CHEAP!
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That sure brings back great memories. My first bike was a 78 KZ650 because I couldn't afford the bigger bikes, but I just love that style of Kawasaki.